Thread: Car Wash
View Single Post
Old Jun 28, 2004 | 03:58 PM
  #14  
redgoober4life's Avatar
redgoober4life
I eat plastic.
 
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 15,177
Likes: 0
From: Detroit, MI
Default

I like NXT wash.

And as I'm reading this: don't use a chamois to dry you car. There is absolutely no nap to a chamois--synthetic or natural. This means any dust that gets onto the car between a final rinse and drying..well, is being rubbed directly into the paint. Use a 100% cotton towel, or invest in some microfibers.

Doing this will reduce drying time:

Notice: I took the nozel off of the hose for a final rinse. The stream of water causes the water to sheet. What are you left with?

A few beads here and there, and there's a very thin layer of water that just needs to be wiped.
For reference, this is a waffle weave, it probably takes up a third of the hood, didn't get pictures of it in full.


Then you'll want to clay. Want a reason?




You do not need a buffer, and I do not recommend somebody that is going to polish their car once or twice a year buy one. It's a time saver, an labor saver, but it's certainly not a necessity as a Porter Cable will run you $120 + $45 for 6 pads.

I certainly, as was recommended to you, to NOT use a rotary polisher. Random orbitals, if you can give out the money for the previously mentioned Porter Cable 7424 would handle 90% of what you will encounter. It would certainly make you happy. You wouldn't have to worry about burning the paint. I only break out a rotary for very few vehicles. It's a pain--because I have to follow up with the porter cable and a lighter polish after, anyway.

Then, hm. If you can find it, use Meguiars #9 swirl mark remover. Apply with a terry towel, work back and forth (for the love of baby jesus, don't use small circles), work until it is almost clear, then wipe immediately. Follow up with non cleaning wax (meguiars #16-super reflective, glossy, NXT-super reflective, somewhat plasticky looking, meguiars #26, warm reflections, warm shine). You do not have to let wax "dry" Wipe it off panel per panel--this will save you effort. Especially many paste waxes--they dry very hard.

More product isn't always best. Infact, I'd use just enough to spread a 3'x3' area, but not excess. Why? You want to break down these abrassives, with more product you are creating more work for yourself. Find the amount of product good for the job--you can always add more. The exception is when you are compounding out wetsanding marks and such--but you're not doing that so don't worry about it.

Windows? Stoners invisible glass is the best I have found. Use horizontal strokes on one side and vertical on the other side. This way you will know which side is streaking.

Of course, before you dress the tires you're going to want to clean them and the wheels. Eagle One has a good line of wheel cleaner, even one for tires and wheels. Really, any red/purple degreaser will work well slightly diluted. Spray on and scrub a bit. Rinse off. Tire dressing wise? I personally like Pooyboys Bold 'n Bright for shiney tires, and Poorboys Natural Look for a satin look. Meguiars has a Natural Shine that won't make them bling bling, but will give them a nice shine.

I really don't know what else Let me know if you have any questions.

Further knowledge and stores.
http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...Auc+index.html
http://www.autopia.org
http://www.pakshak.com
http://www.autogeek.net
Reply