Notices
Showroom Find you some "show" for your "go."

Got my bling on (lots-o'-pics)

Thread Tools
 
Old May 13, 2004 | 10:11 AM
  #21  
The G2 Racer's Avatar
The G2 Racer
Want Boost!
 
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,624
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
Default

Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
$175 for all 3 pieces h:

I find the deals...
Wow....That's a damn good price man.

Pics on the car soon I hope.
Reply
Old May 13, 2004 | 12:35 PM
  #22  
Jafro's Avatar
Jafro
I'm made of meat!
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Default

Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
$175 for all 3 pieces h:

I find the deals...
The wastegate's billett aluminum, right? The manifold is Stainless... I'd have done them all for $150 shipped if you disassembled them first.

I wouldn't touch a small cast aluminum part for under $100 unless the surface had already been CNC'd or turned on a lathe.

PS: I'm about to go outside and polish my power steering pump. :loco:
Reply
Old May 13, 2004 | 01:03 PM
  #23  
westcoaststyle's Avatar
westcoaststyle
Thread Starter
Still here... sorta...
 
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,177
Likes: 2
From: CO
Default

It was $175 to polish my stainless manifold, aluminum compressor housing, and aluminum skunk2 manifold (ouch):



I did the mount and the wastegate myself. h:

Last edited by westcoaststyle; May 13, 2004 at 01:22 PM.
Reply
Old May 13, 2004 | 06:49 PM
  #24  
Jafro's Avatar
Jafro
I'm made of meat!
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Default

Oh, you meant... polish the INSIDE of the intake manifold. That's a boatload less surface area than polishing the outside, too. I was talking about the outside of cast aluminum parts, and you have to be criminally insane to take the time it takes to polish a Intake Manifold. They're 5x tougher than polishing the outside of a cylinder head.

BTW: The power steering pump came out okay. Certainly not as good as my EGR valve, but I didn't go nuts on it because I may have to replace it, If it were rebuildable, then I'd spend a few more hours on it, but I won't know that until tomorrow.
Reply
Old May 13, 2004 | 09:40 PM
  #25  
westcoaststyle's Avatar
westcoaststyle
Thread Starter
Still here... sorta...
 
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,177
Likes: 2
From: CO
Default

hahahahaha... I almost feel like I'm competing here, but I know I'll lose. :chuckles:

I did my valve cover lettering tonight. I skipped from 400 to 600 to 1500 and I think the jump from 600 to 1500 is too much since there's still small scratches visible. I think I need to get an 800 or 1000 in there. h:

Teach me o' wise one. :bowdown:
Reply
Old May 18, 2004 | 04:16 AM
  #26  
Jafro's Avatar
Jafro
I'm made of meat!
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Default

Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
hahahahaha... I almost feel like I'm competing here, but I know I'll lose. :chuckles:

I did my valve cover lettering tonight. I skipped from 400 to 600 to 1500 and I think the jump from 600 to 1500 is too much since there's still small scratches visible. I think I need to get an 800 or 1000 in there. h:

Teach me o' wise one. :bowdown:
The trick is to sand in one direction until you've wet sanded everything as smooth as you can get it, then sand at a 90° angle to that until you've sanded all of those scratches out, then step up to a finer grit and do it again. You can see the scratches best that way. Eventually they'll all come out, but usually not until 800-1000 grit. going from 600 to 1500 is too great of a jump. The part is ready for the polisher after going the 2nd direction with 600 grit. I did the front of my head to 1500 grit because it's too hard to get in there with the polisher, and doing that allowed me to hand-polish it. I took my valve cover down to 800 grit and machine-polished it, and it's a bit shinyer than my head.

But no matter how much you polish that thing, it won't become a DSM :rofl: j/k

I just like polished parts because of originality. 99% of the mofo's out there don't have the patience, time, or know-how to do it. And when you're done, it actually FEELS to just know you have it. It's impractical as hell on a race motor, borderline-futile. I do it anyway.

You're so totally gonna be addicted, man. I'm warning you. Your post count is going to stop rising. Your girl will leave you. A few things about the polishing wheel... Long sleeves and pants. You'd better like getting black boogers, earwax, pillow cases, raccoon-face from the safety goggles. That's the real sacrifice. But the second you see that finish on there, you can't stop.
Reply
Old May 18, 2004 | 06:12 AM
  #27  
westcoaststyle's Avatar
westcoaststyle
Thread Starter
Still here... sorta...
 
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,177
Likes: 2
From: CO
Default

Originally Posted by Jafro
The trick is to sand in one direction until you've wet sanded everything as smooth as you can get it, then sand at a 90° angle to that until you've sanded all of those scratches out, then step up to a finer grit and do it again. You can see the scratches best that way. Eventually they'll all come out, but usually not until 800-1000 grit. going from 600 to 1500 is too great of a jump. The part is ready for the polisher after going the 2nd direction with 600 grit. I did the front of my head to 1500 grit because it's too hard to get in there with the polisher, and doing that allowed me to hand-polish it. I took my valve cover down to 800 grit and machine-polished it, and it's a bit shinyer than my head.

But no matter how much you polish that thing, it won't become a DSM :rofl: j/k

I just like polished parts because of originality. 99% of the mofo's out there don't have the patience, time, or know-how to do it. And when you're done, it actually FEELS to just know you have it. It's impractical as hell on a race motor, borderline-futile. I do it anyway.

You're so totally gonna be addicted, man. I'm warning you. Your post count is going to stop rising. Your girl will leave you. A few things about the polishing wheel... Long sleeves and pants. You'd better like getting black boogers, earwax, pillow cases, raccoon-face from the safety goggles. That's the real sacrifice. But the second you see that finish on there, you can't stop.
:lmfao:

I already have experienced the black boogers, earwax, racoon face from this. :rofl:

What kind of polishing wheel do you use and what kind of compound?
Reply
Old May 18, 2004 | 06:41 AM
  #28  
qtiger's Avatar
qtiger
Moderator
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 11,776
Likes: 0
Default

Crap ass log manifold :down: :down: :down: :down:


Reply
Old May 19, 2004 | 03:40 AM
  #29  
Jafro's Avatar
Jafro
I'm made of meat!
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Default

I usually begin with black rouge because it has emory compound. It's a fast cutting compound and usually will put a shine on Aluminum very quickly. It will put a shine on un-sanded cast aluminum. Looks like crap unless you sand it down to at least 400-grit, though. It will also put a shine on Stainless Steel after only sanding it down to 220 grit. Good stuff. Turns an hour into minutes and is hard as fawk to find. Try a welding supply store. I got 4 kinds of rouge in a box for $9. That's how I discovered the black and I'm almost out of it. I guess I've gone black (insert your joke here).

Then I follow it with white rouge which is much finer and this is what puts the real mirror finish on things. I tried jeweler's rouge and it was a waste of time. That stuff is only good for precious metals. I should have known better. It might improve the shine that white rouge can leave on the part, but you won't really need to.

No black pillow cases yet, eh?
Reply
Old May 19, 2004 | 07:37 AM
  #30  
EJcivic02's Avatar
EJcivic02
I talk Before I think
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 0
From: eugene. OR
Default

:closeup: do i spy a Josh in all of those blinin pictures? green shirt and khaki pants, just get home from work? h:
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:11 AM.