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S2000 performance upgrades

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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 07:38 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ottokrat
FYI, My car is a Suzuka Blue '06. Here're some simple but sometimes very effective ideas to start with.
  1. Modifry's RPM/Redline Shift buzzer - My 1991 RX-7 came with a shift buzzer stock, and I became addicted to it. I found Modifry's and installed, so now I have that on my S2000; very nice.
  2. X-Brace - You can really feel the difference as less (undamped) bounciness over rough roads. I choose Rick's.
  3. (Custom) Alignment - Set to your preferred specs. I prefer less rear camber for a street machine, so adjusted mine near the minimum spec (-1 is minimum, actually I used -0.9). The rear end feels much more stable, plus, much better tire wear. (Also feels better putting down lots of power during turns as both tires have good ground contact.)
  4. (Custom) Valve Adjustment - Increase engine acceleration smoothness, increase throttle response crispness, increase full power especially 4-6k (e.g. below vtec), lose some power below 2k (doesn't matter though). Use minimum factory specs (0.008 intake & 0.010 exhaust). I had mine done at 4500 (4.5k) miles, and would do it again in a heart beat - really worth it.
  5. Air Box Modification - increase throttle response (cut out internal divider, remove air flow directors), get better sound (block resonator port). Reported at 2-3 hp increase. Can't beat free hp.
  6. Throttle body coolant bypass - decrease temps at throttle body (maybe don't do if worried about throttle icing due to operation in cold weather).
  7. Coolant mixture - Improve engine performance in warm weather. Reduce/eliminate "kangaroo" effect on hot days. Drain some coolant and replace with (pure, distilled) water to acheive a 70/30 mixture or so. 70/30 is good down to about +4 deg F, I think. (Obviously don't do if you have a snowy winter.) Use Redline Water Wetter (NOTE: if you do this, especially if you use the WW, you must flush & change your coolant at least every 15k; I choose every 10k / once a year. It's worth it though.)
  8. Experiment with fuel - 91 octane is the best we have here in CA, but still I have options. Here's a comparison of my available fuels. 91 Chevron: smooth, high driveablity, good on low end, but can't hardly tell when crossing into VTEC. 91 Shell: explodes into VTEC, there's no missing VTEC engagement!! somewhat less drivability in low end - a bit of occasional stumbling at less than 3k rpm (though coolant mixture and valve adjustment basically cure this). I choose the 91 Shell. (NOTE: both of these gasolines are TOP TIER.)
1) Okay
2) Okay
3) Fine
4) :rofl: You're not going to get one more hp out of a valve adjustment, unless you go to 10k each day and like to bend valves
4) Honda spent millions of dollars into the engineering, you're wasting your time
5) :rofl: Just buy the pre-mixed Honda coolant, it's not doing anything
6) :rofl: :rofl: It's all in your head buddy, different gas doesn't give you more low-end, displacement does
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 08:16 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by ottokrat
FYI, My car is a Suzuka Blue '06. Here're some simple but sometimes very effective ideas to start with.
  1. Modifry's RPM/Redline Shift buzzer - My 1991 RX-7 came with a shift buzzer stock, and I became addicted to it. I found Modifry's and installed, so now I have that on my S2000; very nice.
  2. X-Brace - You can really feel the difference as less (undamped) bounciness over rough roads. I choose Rick's.
  3. (Custom) Alignment - Set to your preferred specs. I prefer less rear camber for a street machine, so adjusted mine near the minimum spec (-1 is minimum, actually I used -0.9). The rear end feels much more stable, plus, much better tire wear. (Also feels better putting down lots of power during turns as both tires have good ground contact.)
  4. (Custom) Valve Adjustment - Increase engine acceleration smoothness, increase throttle response crispness, increase full power especially 4-6k (e.g. below vtec), lose some power below 2k (doesn't matter though). Use minimum factory specs (0.008 intake & 0.010 exhaust). I had mine done at 4500 (4.5k) miles, and would do it again in a heart beat - really worth it.
  5. Air Box Modification - increase throttle response (cut out internal divider, remove air flow directors), get better sound (block resonator port). Reported at 2-3 hp increase. Can't beat free hp.
  6. Throttle body coolant bypass - decrease temps at throttle body (maybe don't do if worried about throttle icing due to operation in cold weather).
  7. Coolant mixture - Improve engine performance in warm weather. Reduce/eliminate "kangaroo" effect on hot days. Drain some coolant and replace with (pure, distilled) water to acheive a 70/30 mixture or so. 70/30 is good down to about +4 deg F, I think. (Obviously don't do if you have a snowy winter.) Use Redline Water Wetter (NOTE: if you do this, especially if you use the WW, you must flush & change your coolant at least every 15k; I choose every 10k / once a year. It's worth it though.)
  8. Experiment with fuel - 91 octane is the best we have here in CA, but still I have options. Here's a comparison of my available fuels. 91 Chevron: smooth, high driveablity, good on low end, but can't hardly tell when crossing into VTEC. 91 Shell: explodes into VTEC, there's no missing VTEC engagement!! somewhat less drivability in low end - a bit of occasional stumbling at less than 3k rpm (though coolant mixture and valve adjustment basically cure this). I choose the 91 Shell. (NOTE: both of these gasolines are TOP TIER.)
Taking a dump before you drive is probably more effective than those mods.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 09:58 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ottokrat
[*]Air Box Modification - increase throttle response (cut out internal divider, remove air flow directors), get better sound (block resonator port). Reported at 2-3 hp increase. Can't beat free hp.[/LIST]
You also suck in more hot hair. Go full stock or full aftermarket, removing the cover for better sound has no noticable power gains!
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 07:17 AM
  #44  
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in chronical order...suspension, exhaust, ecu, final drive
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 08:01 PM
  #45  
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It depends on what your looking for and your budget, I,H,E dont yeild big gains on S2000's since they are so well tuned out of the factory(what i have found out on S2KI since I have had my 06 for about 3 months). If you have the budget for go fast performance I would get gears, vortech supercharger(comptech's dont yeild as much gain), aem ems(since the standalone systems are the only true help for s2000's), and larger injectors with a 3" exhaust and ricks header, easily get 330 to the wheel on stock boost. Just go to S2ki very helpful....

Last edited by JDMPONY00; Oct 18, 2006 at 08:05 PM.
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 08:25 PM
  #46  
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My buddy supercharged his s2k. It's FAST!
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 08:48 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by evolution
You also suck in more hot hair. Go full stock or full aftermarket, removing the cover for better sound has no noticable power gains!
LOL! Sure you remove the air box lid in order to remove the internal divider, and block the resonator opening, but then you put the lid back on!!
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 02:04 PM
  #48  
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wow i didnt know that freeway cruise rpm's are so high, even with a 6th gear. but it makes sense.
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Old Jan 15, 2007 | 02:16 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Spec R
wow i didnt know that freeway cruise rpm's are so high, even with a 6th gear. but it makes sense.
6th gear is really short. Next time you drive one, go on the freeway...hardly a difference between 5th and 6th.
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Old Jan 21, 2007 | 08:26 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by shivers
The car is very balanced in all aspects from the factory. My advice would be to just leave it alone and enjoy it as-is. Spend your money on track days and HPDEs and learn to become a better driver.
That's incredibly sound advice. That would be money very well spent.
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