Frankenstein engine
guess that settles it 
The h23 is just as reliable as long as you dont rev it higher then it was originally intended. The only weakness i see is if you have the faulty bearings still in it, but that would break regardless of the head swap.

The h23 is just as reliable as long as you dont rev it higher then it was originally intended. The only weakness i see is if you have the faulty bearings still in it, but that would break regardless of the head swap.
I have a question, will type s pistons work on a h22a block? I'm not sure if you covered it or not sorry if you have. Also what valves and valve springs are best to put into a h22a block? If I want to go to turbo how should I prepare my block? If I wanted to go turbo would h23 block and h22a head go good? Or should I just stick with the h22a block? I was going to start a new thread but I saw this thread. Thanks guys.
Originally posted by machinehead
guess that settles it
The h23 is just as reliable as long as you dont rev it higher then it was originally intended. The only weakness i see is if you have the faulty bearings still in it, but that would break regardless of the head swap.
guess that settles it

The h23 is just as reliable as long as you dont rev it higher then it was originally intended. The only weakness i see is if you have the faulty bearings still in it, but that would break regardless of the head swap.
therefore, you will never hit 170whp because you will either rev it up high enough to DO that, or you will keep it within the limits of the h23 and never reach peak power........i guess the way you drive matters, but mine sees redline about 99.9% of the time.....i drive the hell out of it......building an unreliable h23vtec when honda makes one seems like a waste....the h23 from the JDM market is 2.3 liters, DOHC VTEC, not very popular so it's not super expensive, but just not the easiest to find...makes 200hp, works well together and HAS OIL SQUIRTERS.........i've seen people build their own and they actually got squirters to work in the h23 block, but then he spun a rod bearing after a 7000rpm run.......coincidence possibly, but it just seems like a waste to me.....not beneficial like the ls/vtec buildup is......only seen one dyno and it says it's worth all of -3 peak hp and the same peak torque, but 2 hp/4 tq down low under 3000rpm......and that's compared to a stock h22 that was simply tuned with a vafc.....
Originally posted by Calilude
I have a question, will type s pistons work on a h22a block? I'm not sure if you covered it or not sorry if you have. Also what valves and valve springs are best to put into a h22a block? If I want to go to turbo how should I prepare my block? If I wanted to go turbo would h23 block and h22a head go good? Or should I just stick with the h22a block? I was going to start a new thread but I saw this thread. Thanks guys.
I have a question, will type s pistons work on a h22a block? I'm not sure if you covered it or not sorry if you have. Also what valves and valve springs are best to put into a h22a block? If I want to go to turbo how should I prepare my block? If I wanted to go turbo would h23 block and h22a head go good? Or should I just stick with the h22a block? I was going to start a new thread but I saw this thread. Thanks guys.
i'd start a new thread
Originally posted by drift
i have done the swap. this is more than can be said about everyone else who has posted thus far.
i'm not going argue with anyone who hasnt ever taken apart their motor or an H23 for that matter... a ricer never listens to those who know.
i have done the swap. this is more than can be said about everyone else who has posted thus far.
i'm not going argue with anyone who hasnt ever taken apart their motor or an H23 for that matter... a ricer never listens to those who know.
v
Originally posted by Mr.Badguy
but is it still cheaper than a whole new engine? Is it fairly easy to do without the aid of a shop?
but is it still cheaper than a whole new engine? Is it fairly easy to do without the aid of a shop?
other than stroking you can build as drift has. ask him nicely for the prices he paid. another possibility is to change cam sprockets to p14 and see if that works. this im not sure of
also depending on your plans/needs/wants, you can build with a small number of specialty tools. one major requirement for a lasting build is a clean working environment and building technique. i have just under 15k miles on my build while many have not seen past 5k or less. the great number of failed 2.3vtecs, i believe, are fault of ill built motors, unclean technique, carelessness in driving, and what other possibilities there are to destroy a motor. of course with my current lucky streak now that i speak of this my motor will go down.
v
Originally posted by machinehead
guess that settles it
The h23 is just as reliable as long as you dont rev it higher then it was originally intended. The only weakness i see is if you have the faulty bearings still in it, but that would break regardless of the head swap.
guess that settles it

The h23 is just as reliable as long as you dont rev it higher then it was originally intended. The only weakness i see is if you have the faulty bearings still in it, but that would break regardless of the head swap.
honda has never admitted it, but from what ive seen with magnafluxing h23a1 cranks, it def has balancing flaws compared to the h22a crank
and of course the h23a1's stroke is longer than the h22a, whilst the h22a/1 is much closer to the optimal bore/stroke ratio.
(we already had a thread recently about this ratio)
drift, i am going by my HONDA SERVICE MANUAL again...HONDA designs and builds these motors, and i think it is a little arrogant to claim that you know more than those poor little suicidal engineers who go home and kill themselves if they miss-label 1 blueprint out of 1,000,000.
IMO
part for part...boosted or NA...the h22a WILL outperform the H23a
~boom
Originally posted by 93si4ws
im confused, are you saying in any situation an h22 will take an h23? because i've taken many n/a 2.2vtecs with this n/a motor, from stand stills, running starts, and at highway speeds.
im confused, are you saying in any situation an h22 will take an h23? because i've taken many n/a 2.2vtecs with this n/a motor, from stand stills, running starts, and at highway speeds.
basically im saying mod for mod
and im not sure if u mean a non-vtec h23a1 or a 2.3 VTEC.
im assuming 2.3 vtec
i havent had the luxury of racing a 2.3 vtec on the street as of yet, but i would love to if anyone with this engine is in the tri-state (NYC metro area), and has it in a 4g or 5g lude
my main point is that reliability/cost/power, my vote is for an h22a series motor
sure i think its cool that some of you guys got the whole hybrid thing down, and thats great, but i still think h22a is a better deal
unless you are planning to fully build the whole h23 motor for heavy abuse
~boom


