h23 turbo kits
Senior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,052
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From: Long Island, NY
good turbo kits?
well you will need to build up your bottom end first
t3/t4 is a popular choice.
if i were you (but im not)
i would get a custom manifold made and use mitsu (DSM) turbos
like a 14b, that would do your car just nicely
the fact is that there are tons of these turbos available and they are decently cheaper than alot of the aftermarket kits you find online for the h23a1 and most honda engines
a friend of mine is running a 14b (stock 1g DSM turbine)
on a custom manifold in a 1986 CRX (w/ 89 integra motor)
BTW all of this cost him under $1000 INCLUDING THE CRX.
he is running in the mid to high 13's UNTUNED and at about 7-9 psi
~boomer
well you will need to build up your bottom end first
t3/t4 is a popular choice.
if i were you (but im not)
i would get a custom manifold made and use mitsu (DSM) turbos
like a 14b, that would do your car just nicely
the fact is that there are tons of these turbos available and they are decently cheaper than alot of the aftermarket kits you find online for the h23a1 and most honda engines
a friend of mine is running a 14b (stock 1g DSM turbine)
on a custom manifold in a 1986 CRX (w/ 89 integra motor)
BTW all of this cost him under $1000 INCLUDING THE CRX.
he is running in the mid to high 13's UNTUNED and at about 7-9 psi
~boomer
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 472
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From: Hailey, Idaho
Personally, I am looking at this project w/o my checkbook in mind. I have every intention of rebuilding the whole motor from the block up (this is my.....spare...H23 out of my totaled lude) then throwing a kit on it. The build including forged H beam rods, balanced crank, forged low compression pistons, absolutely everything. I was looking at components from Garett, HKS, GReddy, Apex-i, etc. is there a bolt-on kit already tested w/ it's given components within a reasonable price, or should I just seek out seperate components from the selected companies?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 196
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From: Miami, Florida
Senior Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,052
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From: Long Island, NY
Originally posted by k.a.y
I've heard the reliability level of that frankenstein motor is rediculously low. Plus, when dealing w/ high boost levels, VTEC is disabled, anyway.
I've heard the reliability level of that frankenstein motor is rediculously low. Plus, when dealing w/ high boost levels, VTEC is disabled, anyway.
extra valve lift at high RPMS helps alot
what boost doesnt like is valve overlap (duration)
at high rpms in VTEC mode, the intake valves are opening to let air in while the exhaust valves are still open, this helps the engine breathing since the exhaust vacuum pulls the intake charge inside the cylinder quicker and also helps vacate the exhaust quicker.
on a turbo setup, this will cause boost-thru, where the pressure is being ejected as its entering the cylinder, thereby not allowing the motor to build boost in the cylinder.
ie. if you get turbo cams for your VTEC motor to shave off some overlap and duration than that extra valve lift is only gonna help by allowing more airflow (more lift) and the car is going to pull.
people who dont truly understand VTEC and how honda integrates it into their motors think VTEC is bad for boost.
its all about tuning
~boom
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 196
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From: Miami, Florida
definitely about tuning
with my h23 set-up, i am running 9-10psi on the thicker headgasket. more reliable
also my powerband is to 6800 redline, i don't have to rev it out like vtec to get the power, vtec 7800-8000rpm redline with boost may cause valves to float
with my h23 set-up, i am running 9-10psi on the thicker headgasket. more reliable
also my powerband is to 6800 redline, i don't have to rev it out like vtec to get the power, vtec 7800-8000rpm redline with boost may cause valves to float