you should have checked compression while it was blowing white smoke, to find out which cylinder (if not all 4) is loosing the most compression

right and wrong

ring gap is a spec located in the helms manual, there should be some gap. You can simulate the new ring gap by using the upside down piston head to push the ring into the cylinder, remove the piston and then use a feeler gauge to measure the gap.
correct install position of the rings (gap) is also outlined in the helms
i would not attempt to rebuild that engine without a helms shop manual (mine is 94 h22a1 manual, 1490 pages, $92)
i will look up the ring install specs and post them once i get home from work


why are you building an h23a1 for your accord?
why not use an h22a/1
its 3 extra wires

~boom

 

why are you building an h23a1 for your accord?
why not use an h22a/1
its 3 extra wires

~boom [/B][/QUOTE]


Well that was my first pick (h22), but I happened to find a Lude with a H23...SO i went with that...and Besides H23 is better for Boost. Also the H23 only has 10g on it:naughty: , very strong

 

i dont consider any h23a1 strong compared to any h22a1

the h22a is much better balanced, and where did you find a h23a1 with 10g? (i assume u mean 10,000 miles)
considering honda made the last ones in 1996

also, stephan papadakis uses a turbo h22a on his 2001 civic, and he runs 8's at 180+ MPH

so i dont see how a h23a1 is better for boost, you just have get the VTEC disabled for the turbo

~boom

 

hes prolly saying its better for boost because it doesnt have vtec, which again is incorrect.

 

yes and no... it's a 2.5 litre. they took an H22A, bored it to 90mm, then used the H23's crank to stroke it (a billet version thereof). the block had a deck plate installed to accomodate a longer rod to help square up the rod/stroke ratio and improve high rpm performance and reduce side forces within the rotational assembly.

the ideal rod/stroke ratio is 1.75:1 the H23 is about 1.59:1 and the H22 is 1.64:1 or something like that. i had everything written in a build log somewhere, but have had no success with finding them since i moved.

 

actually i believe the h22 is 1.58, not positive though...and also I dont believe its possible to have an H23 that is better than an H22, just think of the advantages of having 2 different sets of cams? i mean its ideal....they dont really make a whole of cams in the form of turbo cams for the h22, but if you really know what you're doing a made a custom turbo cam for the h22, it would be unreal

 

i hope you followed honda spec on that hone, cause if you didnt you will probably end up needing sleeves in the long run....as in iron sleeves since the appearance of teh FRM sleeves right now is that they are ruined.

 

H23 = 1.49:1 rod/stroke ratio
H22 = 1.59:1

sorry about that... just found my notes.

also, the AEM civic features a roller rocker conversion, which eliminates the VTEC function. this is due to less valvetrain friction and the fact that VTEC is useless in the realm of drag racing.

VTEC is great for fuel economy, when a loping idle and low rpm efficiency is important... but fuel economy is not of a concern on the race track.

 

thank god someone agrees with me! the other day i was argueing with some kid with a v-tec civic that if you want flat out performance, v-tec is just a fuel saver, but if you need a daily ride thats when its a performance upgrade. I think JUN also makes a similiar kit.

 

VTEC is a system to improve engine breathing at higher rpms.
it is also a system that allows for a very flat torque curve.

the system was designed for NA use only and IS useable in drag racing.
DOHC VTEC has nothing to do with gas mileage.

explain why the h23a1 (non-VTEC) makes 160HP at about 6000 rpm, CR=9.8/1
and the h22a1 (VTEC) makes 190 HP at 6800 rpm, CR=10/1

both are DOHC

how did they gain 30 hp in only 800 extra rpm and .2 CR...
while losing a liter at the same time.

did the 30 HP come from better gas mileage? :fawk:

~boom