H22 rebuild troubles - PICS inside
#11
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you should have checked compression while it was blowing white smoke, to find out which cylinder (if not all 4) is loosing the most compression
right and wrong
ring gap is a spec located in the helms manual, there should be some gap. You can simulate the new ring gap by using the upside down piston head to push the ring into the cylinder, remove the piston and then use a feeler gauge to measure the gap.
correct install position of the rings (gap) is also outlined in the helms
i would not attempt to rebuild that engine without a helms shop manual (mine is 94 h22a1 manual, 1490 pages, $92)
i will look up the ring install specs and post them once i get home from work
why are you building an h23a1 for your accord?
why not use an h22a/1
its 3 extra wires
~boom
Originally posted by killashandrea
Don't mean to bust any bubbles, and though I don't know to much about honda's. But every car I have ever worked on, the piston rings have to have an opening to put them on and take them off, and to fit them to that piston. And they don't cause a problem. The only thing that would cause a problem is if those openings are lined up, they all have to be set so that they are seperated from each other, otherwise oil can get through when it's not supposed to. You might want to hit the books before causing making a big seen, because if I'm right it can make you look bad.
Don't mean to bust any bubbles, and though I don't know to much about honda's. But every car I have ever worked on, the piston rings have to have an opening to put them on and take them off, and to fit them to that piston. And they don't cause a problem. The only thing that would cause a problem is if those openings are lined up, they all have to be set so that they are seperated from each other, otherwise oil can get through when it's not supposed to. You might want to hit the books before causing making a big seen, because if I'm right it can make you look bad.
ring gap is a spec located in the helms manual, there should be some gap. You can simulate the new ring gap by using the upside down piston head to push the ring into the cylinder, remove the piston and then use a feeler gauge to measure the gap.
correct install position of the rings (gap) is also outlined in the helms
i would not attempt to rebuild that engine without a helms shop manual (mine is 94 h22a1 manual, 1490 pages, $92)
i will look up the ring install specs and post them once i get home from work
Originally posted by XxAccord94jxX
GOD DAMN...WELL SAID
Geez I love this girl, Who ever got her is lucky:thumbup:
GOD DAMN...WELL SAID
Geez I love this girl, Who ever got her is lucky:thumbup:
why not use an h22a/1
its 3 extra wires
~boom
#12
why are you building an h23a1 for your accord?
why not use an h22a/1
its 3 extra wires
~boom [/B][/QUOTE]
Well that was my first pick (h22), but I happened to find a Lude with a H23...SO i went with that...and Besides H23 is better for Boost. Also the H23 only has 10g on it:naughty: , very strong
why not use an h22a/1
its 3 extra wires
~boom [/B][/QUOTE]
Well that was my first pick (h22), but I happened to find a Lude with a H23...SO i went with that...and Besides H23 is better for Boost. Also the H23 only has 10g on it:naughty: , very strong
#13
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Originally posted by XxAccord94jxX
Well that was my first pick (h22), but I happened to find a Lude with a H23...SO i went with that...and Besides H23 is better for Boost. Also the H23 only has 10g on it:naughty: , very strong
Well that was my first pick (h22), but I happened to find a Lude with a H23...SO i went with that...and Besides H23 is better for Boost. Also the H23 only has 10g on it:naughty: , very strong
i dont consider any h23a1 strong compared to any h22a1
the h22a is much better balanced, and where did you find a h23a1 with 10g? (i assume u mean 10,000 miles)
considering honda made the last ones in 1996
also, stephan papadakis uses a turbo h22a on his 2001 civic, and he runs 8's at 180+ MPH
so i dont see how a h23a1 is better for boost, you just have get the VTEC disabled for the turbo
~boom
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Originally posted by ludeboom
also, stephan papadakis uses a turbo h22a on his 2001 civic, and he runs 8's at 180+ MPH
also, stephan papadakis uses a turbo h22a on his 2001 civic, and he runs 8's at 180+ MPH
yes and no... it's a 2.5 litre. they took an H22A, bored it to 90mm, then used the H23's crank to stroke it (a billet version thereof). the block had a deck plate installed to accomodate a longer rod to help square up the rod/stroke ratio and improve high rpm performance and reduce side forces within the rotational assembly.
the ideal rod/stroke ratio is 1.75:1 the H23 is about 1.59:1 and the H22 is 1.64:1 or something like that. i had everything written in a build log somewhere, but have had no success with finding them since i moved.
#16
Originally posted by drift
yes and no... it's a 2.5 litre. they took an H22A, bored it to 90mm, then used the H23's crank to stroke it (a billet version thereof). the block had a deck plate installed to accomodate a longer rod to help square up the rod/stroke ratio and improve high rpm performance and reduce side forces within the rotational assembly.
the ideal rod/stroke ratio is 1.75:1 the H23 is about 1.59:1 and the H22 is 1.64:1 or something like that. i had everything written in a build log somewhere, but have had no success with finding them since i moved.
yes and no... it's a 2.5 litre. they took an H22A, bored it to 90mm, then used the H23's crank to stroke it (a billet version thereof). the block had a deck plate installed to accomodate a longer rod to help square up the rod/stroke ratio and improve high rpm performance and reduce side forces within the rotational assembly.
the ideal rod/stroke ratio is 1.75:1 the H23 is about 1.59:1 and the H22 is 1.64:1 or something like that. i had everything written in a build log somewhere, but have had no success with finding them since i moved.
#17
i hope you followed honda spec on that hone, cause if you didnt you will probably end up needing sleeves in the long run....as in iron sleeves since the appearance of teh FRM sleeves right now is that they are ruined.
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Originally posted by Speedra600
actually i believe the h22 is 1.58, not positive though...and also I dont believe its possible to have an H23 that is better than an H22, just think of the advantages of having 2 different sets of cams? i mean its ideal....they dont really make a whole of cams in the form of turbo cams for the h22, but if you really know what you're doing a made a custom turbo cam for the h22, it would be unreal
actually i believe the h22 is 1.58, not positive though...and also I dont believe its possible to have an H23 that is better than an H22, just think of the advantages of having 2 different sets of cams? i mean its ideal....they dont really make a whole of cams in the form of turbo cams for the h22, but if you really know what you're doing a made a custom turbo cam for the h22, it would be unreal
H23 = 1.49:1 rod/stroke ratio
H22 = 1.59:1
sorry about that... just found my notes.
also, the AEM civic features a roller rocker conversion, which eliminates the VTEC function. this is due to less valvetrain friction and the fact that VTEC is useless in the realm of drag racing.
VTEC is great for fuel economy, when a loping idle and low rpm efficiency is important... but fuel economy is not of a concern on the race track.
#19
Originally posted by drift
H23 = 1.49:1 rod/stroke ratio
H22 = 1.59:1
sorry about that... just found my notes.
also, the AEM civic features a roller rocker conversion, which eliminates the VTEC function. this is due to less valvetrain friction and the fact that VTEC is useless in the realm of drag racing.
VTEC is great for fuel economy, when a loping idle and low rpm efficiency is important... but fuel economy is not of a concern on the race track.
H23 = 1.49:1 rod/stroke ratio
H22 = 1.59:1
sorry about that... just found my notes.
also, the AEM civic features a roller rocker conversion, which eliminates the VTEC function. this is due to less valvetrain friction and the fact that VTEC is useless in the realm of drag racing.
VTEC is great for fuel economy, when a loping idle and low rpm efficiency is important... but fuel economy is not of a concern on the race track.
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Originally posted by machinehead
thank god someone agrees with me! the other day i was argueing with some kid with a v-tec civic that if you want flat out performance, v-tec is just a fuel saver, but if you need a daily ride thats when its a performance upgrade. I think JUN also makes a similiar kit.
thank god someone agrees with me! the other day i was argueing with some kid with a v-tec civic that if you want flat out performance, v-tec is just a fuel saver, but if you need a daily ride thats when its a performance upgrade. I think JUN also makes a similiar kit.
it is also a system that allows for a very flat torque curve.
the system was designed for NA use only and IS useable in drag racing.
DOHC VTEC has nothing to do with gas mileage.
explain why the h23a1 (non-VTEC) makes 160HP at about 6000 rpm, CR=9.8/1
and the h22a1 (VTEC) makes 190 HP at 6800 rpm, CR=10/1
both are DOHC
how did they gain 30 hp in only 800 extra rpm and .2 CR...
while losing a liter at the same time.
did the 30 HP come from better gas mileage? :fawk:
~boom