Hey guys,
bad news, recently did a lead down test and I got some pretty bad numbers. I had 17% and 19% loss in cylinders 1 and 3 and 12% and 13% in the other two. The guy(steve colletti) at the place i got it tested at(colletti motorsports) said they should all be below 10%. Anyway I had the car dynoed as well and it made 165whp. I was a little dissapointed considering I have an aemcai, aem pulleys, greddy evo, fidanza 8lb flywheel, CM stage 2, and the dyno was on the stock wheels, not my 18s. plus I'm burning oil (about 2qrts every 3500 miles) like crazy and gas mileage is'nt that great(well not like it used to be). So I want it back to the way it used to be!!
Keep in mind that I have over 122K on the motor as well. my initial thought was to get another motor rather than rebuild. Then I thought if i could get some good parts and get a good engine builder then I would have a solid engine.
My plan was to get some forged pistons(forged piston kit) and forged connecting rods. meanwhile sending the head to DPR for a stage 6 job. Maybe have DPR rebuild the engine too? I had also been looking into getting a custom bottom end from JG engine dynamics. This seemed very expensive (can't seem to find and prices for the h22 on their site) and I dropped the idea. I have also been thinking about sending the motor to aebs for a rebuild after speaking with Ben Ma on the phone. Would I need to resleeve as well? I'm not really sure which direction to go and am seeking some advice. My main concern is reliability(maybe another 100k). I would also like something with atleast 200 whp. I'd like to FI after the rebuild, as long as I can keep it reliable. Guys I need some advice, please help!!

 

chances are the FRM sleeves are damaged from sidewall contact.

you can rehone the bores and drop in some .25mm overbore pistons.

if you're looking for a performance build, ductile iron sleeving or cast iron sleeving would be recommended. depending on the vintage of your prelude, you can just resleeve the A1's, or go with a solid deck solution on the A4.

dropping forged pistons into an FRM cylinder wouldnt be recommended unless they have a slipskirt design.

 

First of all thanks for your help drift.

If I do go with forced induction later on, and I do use ductile iron sleeves, how will forged pistons hurt the (FRM sleeves) engine in the long run.

If I do have sidewall contact and damage, can I be sure that a 0.25 overbore piston will suffice? will such an overbore make a less reliable engine since it's weaker? Is my understanding correct? Can you elaboratemore on the slipskirt design?

Sorry I did'nt mention earlier but my car is a '97 non-SH(so h22a1).

Also are AEBS T-sleeves much more durable that ductile iron sleeves?

I had assumed that forged pistons and forged rods mated to the stock crank would be a relatively solid bottom end setup.

i've done alot of research into the products but I have more questions knowing which ones are good and maybe proven.

Any input will be appreciated.

 

H22a4 was the standard engine for all 5th gen preludes 97-01.

If not correct please correct me

 

first off, like stinger said, your motor is an H22A4, not A1.

you'll need to inspect the cylinder walls to see if it's worth rehoning or not. if there's gouging, you wont be able to rehone and use rebuild pistons.

you need to decide if you're going forced induction or not. it's not worth me explaining all the stuff about strengthening if you're not planning to boost. besides, you can do a forum search for that info.

as for the slipskirt pistons, they're basically the S2000's piston design. they're forged, but designed to minimize piston skirt to cylinder wall contact and damage while used with FRM liners. standard forged pistons will destroy frm liners due to piston to wall contact, as forged alloy is harder than frm. the slipskirt design is the only way to run forged in an frm liner without damaging the liner.

i have no experience with AEBS products. all i know is their drag car is a Ford Focus, so i question their extent of knowledge on Honda applications. Darton sleeves are a brand i have heard nothing but good things about.

a small overbore for the sake of rebuild at .25mm over will not reduce the structural integrity of the motor. this is Honda certified rebuild specification.

 

sorry it is a h22a4.

well as far as using aebs products, I had seen an article where their T-sleeves were chosen as the best sleeves. I'm not sure if it was for a honda application or not. but they had built 'akira's, a member of the former hondaprelude.com, fmax turbo charged prelude. I think his dyno sheets are the ones you see on f-max as an independent review. that's why I was asking about their products and work.

I have given much consideration to the Fi vs Na dilemma and have come to the conclusion that to get the best reliability, as this is my daily driver, I will need to go the naturally aspirated route. My goal is to get 200 to the wheels. If i can get 190 to the wheels without the headwork, that'll be awesome.

I had seen someone's stock type-s engine dyno sheet and a peak horsepower of 185. can't remember who, but if someone else has a dyno sheet of a type-s engine let me know.