Hi guys and girls!
Just bought an import 2.2 vtec prelude and it had a blowing exhaust. It was running a bit lumpy with the exhaust blowing, but not stalling. However, i've now welded up the exhaust(disconnected battery and alternator). The car starts and runs fine from cold, and seems ok on the road, but will not idle when warmed up. I can't see any split pipes or anything. Help!

 

Went out this morning, fired it up and it was misfiring as well as not wanting to idle properly. Cleaned throttle body, but no joy. Plugs look old, would they cause these symptoms? What should i replace them with?
Dizzy cap looks alright, leads ok.
Car has 77500 miles on it. What else might cause this condition? I wondered about the fuel filter....

 

you prolly need to tighten the iacv...

i just did it to mine today cuz i did the coolant bypass mod on the throttle body

take of the iacv (directly below throttle body) by taking off the 4 bolts on the first part of the tb, sliding it out of the bolts so u can get underneath it, removing the 3 bolts holding the iacv onto the throttle body...

then unscrew the plate on the one side of it, unscrew the white thing that is behind the plate, take out the whole valve, take off the plate holding on the spring, turn the spring around and put it back into the iacv housing, put the plate back on the iacv valve backwards to hold the spring when u put it back into the housing where the spring is...

screw the little white plate back on (not all the way just so it tightly seals off the valve) and put everything back how it was...

be careful to get the spring sitting in the little copper plate that will be on the iacv valve, its tricky cause its hard to keep the plate centered... also dont overtighten any of the bolts on the iacv or the tb cuz i broke one of em... just tighten it till its hard to keep turning

hope that helps... my idle was fluctuating between 1000-1500 rpms when the engine was heated up and now it stays steady at 750

 

Change your plugs

 

i would replace the plugs and see if that changes anything. use ngk pzfr6-11. did you swap this engine into your car? where did it come from? what is it in? will it stay running if you give it pedal? let me know

 

Hi guys
Replaced the plugs, no difference. When removing the old ones, noticed that 1 and 3 had a sooty coating and 2 and 4 were nice and brown. Also replaced fuel filter.
Dizzy cap looked worn after cleaning and testing, with some slight burn markings on 1 and 3 contacts.
Ordered a new cap and rotor arm.
Plug leads had good resistance.
Is this likely to be an idle control problem? Not sure which is the idle control valve.
The car is an import 2.2 vtec, original engine etc, no mods
Car starts no problem, but won't idle at all and stalls once your foot is off the pedal.

 

im tellin u check the idle control valve...

 

^^ IACV, I'd put money on it. If the one under the throttle body is good (if you have an F22, you won't have one there), check the one on the intake manifold plenum.

 

Right. Replaced plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm, and tested leads with a meter.
Also checked the idle valves. They seem ok.
Car won't idle, and misses and pops right across the rev range.
After a short run and removing the plugs, plugs 1 and 3 are very sooty, and plugs 2 and 4 seem to be a nice colour brown. This leads me to believe it has to be an ignition problem...... Fan comes on ok, car does not overheat
On closer inspection of the dizzy, there were some slightly chewed heads on the screws for some of the bits and peices inside. I have a feeling this is where the problem lies. Either that or the ecu.
A new dizzy is £200!!! Don't want to buy one if its not the problem, doh!
Is this a problem on these engines (H22)?
Theres no engine light flashing or displayed, and the tacho seems fine too.
The type of dizzy in the car is the one with the integrated coil block inside, not a seperate one.

 

I would test the ignition coil and igniter per the Helms Manual. I think your on the right track and your right, these components are located in the distributor. All Honda's usually suffer an issue with the distributor related to one or more of the internal components(electronic ones). This to me is a design issue because the high temps reached while located in the distributor with insufficient cooling can lead to premature ignition coil and igniter failure. The only other thing I would think of is that you may have an issue with the timing belt(may have jumped a few teeth).