Faded Paint????
I don't think Milano Red has a clear coat. 
I wouldn't have it sanded down. I'd have a good detailer take a look at it (autopia.org is a good place to find one) and see what they can do. A lot can be done without repainting.
If you want to try something on your own--I've seen good results with Meguiars Color X. It has a lot of cleaners in it. Apply with a terry cloth towel in linear motions working it well into the paint. You may want to follow up with another wax.

I wouldn't have it sanded down. I'd have a good detailer take a look at it (autopia.org is a good place to find one) and see what they can do. A lot can be done without repainting.
If you want to try something on your own--I've seen good results with Meguiars Color X. It has a lot of cleaners in it. Apply with a terry cloth towel in linear motions working it well into the paint. You may want to follow up with another wax.
Yeah when i bought the car it was bright as hell. Then after i drove it for a while it started to get faded. The front bumper and top are noticable but the rest of the body was good. So i think that if i wax it, professionally, it should look better. I think that i'm gonna have a new paint job done next summer, same color, just brighter. My front bumper and rear 1/4 panels are dull but not that noticable. I think they had the hood and trunk/spoiler repainted cause it's not faded and it's a flat surface so i would think it would be faded too.
You need to repaint i had the same problem. Pretty much any plastic on the car was fading. Low mileage car too... 50K on a 96 Lude. Just got mine repainted in May. Looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor.
Originally Posted by Pelka
You need to repaint i had the same problem. Pretty much any plastic on the car was fading. Low mileage car too... 50K on a 96 Lude. Just got mine repainted in May. Looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. 

Really, you just need to polish off the oxidized top layer....
Today 04:25 PM
Today 04:25 PM
Then use the polishing compound as the directions say, and if it isn't getting deep enough into the paint then use the rubbing compound, but be careful with the rubbing compound. Then wax it up and you're looking good. The whole car should take about 4-5 hours if you really do it right
Originally Posted by CA VTEC Sol
bingo, my milano red del sol looked pretty bad when i got it at 108k, but now i get people asking me if it's a new paint job, just go to a shop and get an electric orbital buffer for like $40 and some polishing and rubbing compound, and some good wax too.
Then use the polishing compound as the directions say, and if it isn't getting deep enough into the paint then use the rubbing compound, but be careful with the rubbing compound. Then wax it up and you're looking good. The whole car should take about 4-5 hours if you really do it right
Then use the polishing compound as the directions say, and if it isn't getting deep enough into the paint then use the rubbing compound, but be careful with the rubbing compound. Then wax it up and you're looking good. The whole car should take about 4-5 hours if you really do it right
Try the least agressive product first, and use the least agressive product to do the job. This means, if product A is the least agressive, and product D is the most agressive, don't use product D because you are a bit pessimistic. Use the product that just gets the job done, but doesn't do more then what you need--you will be creating more problems for yourself.
You can try Meguiars color X as a first step product (I don't know if I said this before). It is not very agressive--but should be able to clean up the oxidation. If this doesn't work, well, let me know.
I can send you out some stuff if need be. I have a lot of Meguiars DACP which *should* get the job done.
that's exactly what i was saying, DONT use the rubbing compound right off the bat, i said use the polishing compound first and if it doesn't work THEN go to the heavy duty stuff and BE CAREFUL, don't apply pressure to the buffer, let it do its thing.


