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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 05:51 AM
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Default 90K Maintenance?

Obviously I need to replace the timing belt. But what else am I looking at for the 90K maintenance? Money is kinda tight now since I decided to buy a home before I go hog wild with the Lude, so I just want to cover the essentials and anything I can't do in my own garage. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

~Bob
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 08:59 AM
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water pump generally is replaced at the same time. i dont think its because they wear out at the same time but just because you have to remove the timing belt to replace it so doing it later on will cost you twice as much in labor.
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 09:34 AM
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So what am I looking at roughly for replace of timing belt and water pump?

I can do the spark plugs myself...should I just stick with the factory plugs or are there better plugs out there I should look at?

~Bob
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Old Feb 29, 2004 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by EliteBob13
So what am I looking at roughly for replace of timing belt and water pump?

I can do the spark plugs myself...should I just stick with the factory plugs or are there better plugs out there I should look at?

~Bob
timing belt and water pump will range from 450 - 700.
dealer is probably closer to 700, but watch out for the average mechanic, 90% of them dont know a goddamn thing about honda DOHC engines.

if its a vtec u must use NGK platinum plugs designed for the car. there is a noticeable difference

si and s are probably platinum also but you can use champions and bosch if u want.

~boom
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 01:19 PM
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Water pump, timing belt, accessory belts (2), cam adjustment (recomended since the engine is torn appart anyway), spark plug replacement.

450-700 is about right.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by fastball
Water pump, timing belt, accessory belts (2), cam adjustment (recomended since the engine is torn appart anyway), spark plug replacement.

450-700 is about right.
the engine is torn apart? its just the timing cover, valve cover and drivers engine mount, you dont have to remove the head

cam adjustment :eh:
do cams skip teeth on the belt that often...

or do you mean valve lash adjustment?

~boom
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ludeboom
the engine is torn apart? its just the timing cover, valve cover and drivers engine mount, you dont have to remove the head
Well, yeah, but that's enough work as it is, don't you think? I mean, it's all torn appart in the engine bay so you might as well do everything you need to right then.

Originally Posted by ludeboom
cam adjustment :eh:
do cams skip teeth on the belt that often...

or do you mean valve lash adjustment?

~boom
Oops, sorry..... I meant valve adjustment. You still have to remove the valve cover to do the belt routing easily anyway (at least we did when my uncle and I changed mine). Still, you might as well do the valve adjustment.... it does make a difference and it surprised me by how much a difference it makes.
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 08:42 AM
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What is involved with the valve adjustment?
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 12:20 PM
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You need a set of feeler gauges that have the correct gap for each valve spring (16 of them). You will also need to know what the factory spec is, as you do NOT want to tighten more than the spec. It's not hard, just time consuming..... you have to loosen the adjustment screw with one screwdriver, then slide the feeler gauge at the correct setting under the slot, then with a different screwdriver tighten the adjustment screw untill it just touches the gauge, then tighten the adjustment screw. Do that for each valve.
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Old Mar 3, 2004 | 01:58 PM
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obviously all 8 intake valves are the same
and all 8 exhaust valves are the same.

the chiltons/haynes/helms etc. all have decent instructions and specs for clearance.

for the h22a/1 its .006-.007 inches for intake
and .007-.008 exhaust...

but you never mentioned which engine you have sooo...

~boom
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