1. - strut towers are on the top of the wheel well, not the firewall, yes the firewall provides a lot of chassis rigidity. but the roof plays a bigger role in preventing chassis twist.

2. - strut tower bars may not make a huge difference, but lower braces for front and rear do make a big difference. i can swing my car whenever i want and recover with a flick of the wheel. kinda like RWD. the 4G prelude doesnt have ANY weight over the rear wheels because they are located so far aft. anyway, the front lower brace is the most effective brace on most hondas/acuras

3. - the thin strut bars on ebay dont count because they are thin, obviously the thinner a pipe is the more it will twist when 3000 lbs of momentum changes direction at 70 MPH taking an on ramp (inertia). and thats the point of strut bars, to prevent twisting and keep the tires on a good contact patch.

~boom

 

(Sorry I posted this in the wrong topic, its supposed to be in here)


I finally found a SH model. Not sure how much they want for it, but I went on a Sun. to go have a look at it and noticed there was a few scratches on it. There was alot on the passanger's side and in the front bumper. The front and back bumpers I dont car too much about if they have scratches, seeing on how ima get a kit anyways. Tell me what yall think.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...lor=&cardist=41

Also, how do you take off accent stripes?

 

Take it from someone with over 1000hp inb the engine!!!!!! Go with automatic all the stuff these fools are saying about the auto and stick is true...when comparing a stock to stock application but a fully race built manual will only hold about 400hp a fully race built auto will hold about 470hp. Plus its more consistant, only bad thing is the the manual will rob less power because theres less computer function messin it up!!! But all in all auto's hold more power and its been proven over and over!!! Manual is def. good dont get me wrong but its not better by anymeans unless compared to stock application.

 

it depends on what kind of transmission setup we're talking about, and whose. those 900 whp supras or the lingenfelter vette aren't using a slushbox. the 600 whp civics aren't using an auto 4 spd either. you can pretty much build a tranny to whatever spec you want and have it "hold" however much power you design it to hold.

 

There's clutches (for Hondas, I don't know about Detroit stuff - probably I'd assume) that you can buy which will easily handle 500 hp at the flywheel....... they're stiff as a brick, but they'll handle it.

 

when your putting 500 WHP thru an alluminum casing FWD tranny, the clutch isnt necessarily the weak link, of course you will need a sintered steel or ceramic disc and an insane flywheel, but clutches with that harsh of an engagement can blow the main shaft and countershaft bearings, not to mention the power going thru the tranny itself. cracking the tranny housing is also a problem, i have some small spider cracks on my diff housing from hard launches and heat...and i have a stock motor.

~kris

 

thank you

 

This threat is olllllllldddddddddddddddddddd but very good one!
Oscar

 

So really, no has any valid data to support that a manual is better than a Auto. If you buils an auto it will be more expensive but likely hold more HP. If you build a manual it will stil be a little expensive but be a little quickr if the cars are modded the same. HP can always be overcome, I just want to know, If an Auto SS is taken care of perfectly will it last through as many hard driving sessions as a manual tranny?

 

hell no
no auto SS is going to last konger than a manual.

i am changing my tranny this weekend, its a m2s4 (h23a1) tranny that ive been using for its gearing, because i prefer it over the m2a4/m2f4 (h22a/h22a1) tranny's.

it has 231,000 miles on it, it still works but recently the diff carrier bearings are failing and it whines on the highway, very unsafe if the diff were to lockup.

point being, no way an auto lasts longer or holds more TQ than a manual, unless this auto is built 100%.

~kris