Since I don't have the 50mm hex head tool to hold the crank pulley, no impact gun, the 5th gear/brake pedal trick isn't working and there's no way to stick a sturdy enough screw driver in the flywheel teeth to hold the pully-ANY IDEAS that work? 2000 CR-V is half apart and I wont have time to put it back together to have a shop loosen the bolt, plus the wife needs this by Monday morning!? Still soaking in PB Blaster.

Add to that I think I ripped my nipple off when the breaker bar slipped and hit me! LOVE the crank bolts!!

 

My only advice is to find an impact gun.

 

I bought a rubber strap wrench from Sears. I had the strap wrench on, small screw driver in the flywheel (not doing much), brakes applied, and 5th gear-no go. I can feel movement in the drivetrain and I don't want to stand on the breaker bar and break more than I need to. I'm going to order the Sir Tools 50mm hex harmonic balancer holder for $80 and do it the easier way. That's cheaper than buying an impact and air compressor or taking it somewhere (which I can't do anyway). I guess the wife will have to drive my Civic for a few days!

Unless of course someone near Buffalo has the tool I can borrow, rent or purchase!

 

Ever considered buying an ELECTRIC impact gun? About the size of a drill.

I bought one, after getting endlessly frustrated trying to remove axle nuts.

 

I went with the Sir Tools holder(s), for $110 I can hold the pulleys on both types I have. I have to do three more of these this year!

Any way, with the impact guns I would still need to hold the pulley, once I can secure it I can use regular extensions. I hope!

 

Has that crank bolt ever been removed before?

I gotta tell you...that mofo was on like nobody's business on my 98 LX. The factory torqued that baby WAY past the recommended 120 ft lbs.

I made my own tool from a plumbing fitting(thanks to Curley from the www.hondasuv.com forum . I ground down the hex fitting until it fit perfectly into the opening in the crank pulley. I then used a big pipe wrench to hold it in place.

I still had a helluva time getting that thing off but eventually DID come off. I torqued it to around 110 lbs when I put it back on.

Good Luck!

 

Another VERY important tip(if you weren't aware of it) is to do yourself a favor and pick up a pair of 3/16" drill bits to hold the camshaft pulleys stationary(at TDC) AFTER(NOT before) you have the crankshaft pulley bolt removed.

If you'll notice, there are holes in the #1 camshaft holders which correspond with the holes in the camshafts when the cam is at TDC. Just get everything lined up and insert the drill bits.

It will make your life MUCH easier.

Just remember to remove the bits afterwards

 

Good drill bit tip, I was wondering if those were going to move once the belt was removed.



This crank bolt has not been removed yet, only on it's first 98,000 miles. The plumbing fitting is another good idea, but this tool has a long extension on it, so I should be able to jam it on the ground and stand on the crank bolt without too much trouble.

 

Oh yeah, the camshafts WILL move. In fact, they'll shift as soon as you remove the belt. And they'll make your life a living hell if they aren't held stationary with 3/16" drill bits when you're trying to pull the new belt over them. I think the factory manual mentions to use 5mm(?) pin punches but 3/16" drill bits work just as well.

I had changed the timing belt on my '88 Accord several times previously but it's SOHC engine never caused those kind of problems...the camshaft never moved. I never expected to have so many problems with a DOHC engine. I learned the hard way so I thought I'd pass along that little tidbit to make your life A LOT easier. It's actually quite easy if you do that little manuever.

It still took me several times to get everything lined up perfectly since the crankshaft moved a little bit on my first two attempts.

Yeah, that crankshaft bolt is almost legendary Like I said, I used the plumbing fitting(and a pipe wrench) to hold the crankshaft pulley while I laid on my side and pushed with both legs on my long 1/2"-drive breaker bar. In the beginning I used a 1/2"-3/8" adapter and I eventually snapped the thing on the 3/8" side...that's how bad it was overtorqued. It still took me awhile afterwards but I eventually got it to budge. I was having serious concerns that I was never gonna get that bolt removed.

Good Luck...and let us know how it turns out.

 

My hub holder should be here tommorrow, I'm using a lug nut wrench on the crank bolt, but that reminds me, I'd better go find a 1/2" socket because I know damn well the 3/8-1/2 adapter will snap first!