Good Job Doctor

 

that is not hydrolocking.. please read my post.. if your car is still running your car DID NOT HYDROLOCK.. this topic has been beaten down to death.. give me a break..

there was just enough water to stop combustion..

and its great that you got your car starting but dont go around sayin i restored my car from hydrolock please..

 

Not everyone has to share your definition of hydrolock. It is true a motor turning at high rpm that sucks alot of water will most likely do what you describe. However alot depends on the strength of the internals and the speed of the motor. A low rpm hydrolock could conceivably stop the motor without bending or breaking anything. Hydrolock simply means there is enough water in the motor to stop it from turning over. When you remove the water the motor can still turn over just fine. Then depending on the amount of damage when it is dry it may start.

 

The term hydro means "water" and "lock" means to close of from. In this case, the water closed off his ability to turn over the engine to start his car. There are many different cases of Hydrolock. Your situation (cooldude) is one of the worst you can experiance. My uncle is in the Marine business. He restores sunken boats and water skis (don't know how those sink). But many of the motors that he restores are still in working condition. He just pump it filled with ATF or any cheap petroleum based product and crank it until you can see ATF coming out of the Oil galleries. Then he sprays down the motor with Water Displacement 64 (WD64) to stop any more damage from water on the motor. That was a good idea changeing the oil, I never remember that until now.

 

u said that when you hydrolock you just put enough water in the cylinders to stop combustion...thatz what happened to my car...so i dont understand how that isnt hydrolock? i never said that u got ur car restored from it, i never knew that u got hydrolocked in the first place. and my car stopped running the minute it hit the water. my guess is that my car got some water where there really shouldnt be, i.e: my air intake and possibly the cylinders. BUT...the "guts" from my engine didnt go anywhere...so whatever U think is hydrolock is hydrolock i guess:yes: ... i mean, because it IS possible to restore ur car from hydrolock, but whatever u think. ill stop for the sake of argument.:eek3:

 

i ment thats what he did.. he probley sucked enough water to mess up the combustion in the motor, but not enough to actually hydrolock it..

hydrolocking is when you suck in enough water so the piston stops instantly when it tries to compress the water ..it will break rods like nothing.. and your engine would get a beatin from the inside.. etc..

but hey thats "my" definition of hydrolocking and like i said this topic has been beaten down to death.. This is my research and i have concluded to that answer..

lol

 

aight man, no harm dun. Peace out bro.

 

close this thread IMO there are many levels of hydrolock. From just stoping combustion, to shooting rods out the block.

 

well...i think u guys are right and this thread will be closed but to let u kno...i was going less than 10 mph when this occurred cuz i was sooo scared of it locking on me...so i think i just sucked just enough to lock the engine but not to the extent where it bends a rod( which happened to my friend a year ago here and he had to get a rod and a piston replaced ) ...but so far the car is running well although i haven't pushed it beyond 4400 rpm... but is there a way i can find out if any internals are damaged just to be on the safe side?...i always learn so much from these threads and i thank u guys for your suggestions once again:thumbup:
and also when should i try and push the car to its potential? i probably won't be doin it anytime soon but just wonderin....

 

air compressor - shoot out water - not let dry... bah


cut that CAI for godsakes and put a filter on for shortram - or get comptech box - cold air w/o the filter licking the puddles.