I got my 94 'Teg GS-R about a month and a half ago. Haven't gotten to hands on with it yet. Anyway, needs brake pads bad, or I will be grinding soon. Need to know:

1. What kind of pads do I need just to replace the stock ones (semi-metallic, etc.)? Just going to local auto zone, etc. for them... not looking for performance pads necessarily (altough a "lighter dust" might be nice).

2. Should I change the rear along with the front? I can't tell if they are squeaking too, and visibly it looks like they have a little meat left to 'em.

3. I have buddy club side skirts on my car, but not lowered. Still, low enough to not give enough clearance for the jack. Also, I don't have the stock Integra jack, so is another "universal" or similar jack OK? And since the side skirts interfere with the jack points, where should I jack up the car (mainly in the front)?

4. Some guy told me that I may have a problem with the computer chip because when I push back the caliper piston the pressure in the break line will change and the chip will give an error. Is this true. The guy I bought it from bought/installed a "racing" or similar chip (I don't know what kind or brand), so would this apply the same?

5. ANY other suggestions or tips that I will need to know for changing the brake pads, regarding ABS connections, or anything else would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks VERY MUCH
Tim

 

1)aem nissin pads are good stock replacements for what you need
2)up to you, but i think the rule is to not do them at the same time
3)you can put you car on 2X4's then put the jack under them, or just use the tow hooks in the front and rear to lift the car
4)never heard that before

 

About the chip, I don't think it has to do with brakes period. To push back the piston, use a c-clamp. The pressure when you push back the piston will just push back the fluid into your brake fluid reservoir. Are you going to flush your brake system? If so, I would read what it takes to depressurize your accumulator in your abs system if you have an integrated abs system but just make sure first.

 

Oddly enough, I just did my brakes. I used aftermarket pads, and had the front rotors machined/turned. It was a bona fide motherfvcker getting the rotors off, had to buy an impact driver to do it(ended up having to go buy Craftsman bits for a cheapo driver I got after I broke all 3 bits that came with it.) I used my handy dandy Quik grip for the front brake calipers, the backs you have to use needle nose plaiers or something to turn the piston into the caliper. I also had to adjust the handbrake, it was dragging a little too much with those nice new thick pads. I probably did not need to turn the front rotors, and I did not do the backs, just changed the pads. The brake masters that turned my rotors made a little cross hatch pattern on the thing, so I matched the backs using some 100 grit sand paper. I would recommend a decent floor jack and some jack stands, it makes the job much easier, and Kragen is always running sales on that shat. Check your fluid level, should not have to bleed the brakes if you do the job correctly

 

Thanks for the help. I just did em yesterday w/ my father. I ended up using the EBC Green Stuff pads for the front and had the rotors resurfaced. Didn't change the rear cuz they didn't really need it. Jacking didn't end up being to bad. Rolled up on some 2 by 4's to get the clearance for the jack, then jack under the center radiator support and put jack stands under the two front tow hooks. REALLY easy procedure-wise, I could easily do it myself next time. Didn't need to bleed lines or anything. Surprisingly, no problem with 2 rotor screws either (just used impact hammer).
Again, thanx for the help.

 

congrats, yeah its really easy