brake question
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Northeast PA
brake question
I have a 96 integra gs-r. I'm gettin ready to do the brakes on it tomorrow. Is there a special way to compress the cylinder in the calipers? I did brakes on one a few years ago and i remember it being a real pain to compress the cylinder? any help would be appreciated. thanks
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From: York, Pa
The fronts will just push in and if you can't do it with your hand try to use a c-clamp, this always works for me. The rear calipers have the e-brake attached to it and must be screwed back into place. There is a special tool to turn these back but a pair of channel locks worked for me.
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From: Concord, NC
For the fronts, just use a simple C-clamp to push them in or vice grips. There's a lip on the underside of the cylinder to position the grips against and squeeze the caliper in. For the rears, I used a big ass screwdriver to screw them in. Make sure you line up the rears pistons though so when the pads go and and you apply the brakes, the piston closes correctly onto the studs on the back of the pads. You will want to eye this, but I believe the piston can be screwed till it reaches a parallel/perindicular postion, like the Red Cross symbol (or like this: "+") and they will fit directly on. Otherwise, you'll wear your rear pads out unevenly and prematurely. There's a little vent on the caliper that will allow you to see inside when the piston is closing. Have a buddy apply pressure to the brake SLOWLY to make sure it closes correctly, otherwise, remove the bolt to the caliper, slide up, remove pad and reposition piston.
Also, make sure you don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. You can do some damage here, so use strong twine or a wire hanger to tie it to your spring.
Also, make sure you don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. You can do some damage here, so use strong twine or a wire hanger to tie it to your spring.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Northeast PA
Originally posted by 90'RS
The fronts will just push in and if you can't do it with your hand try to use a c-clamp, this always works for me. The rear calipers have the e-brake attached to it and must be screwed back into place. There is a special tool to turn these back but a pair of channel locks worked for me.
The fronts will just push in and if you can't do it with your hand try to use a c-clamp, this always works for me. The rear calipers have the e-brake attached to it and must be screwed back into place. There is a special tool to turn these back but a pair of channel locks worked for me.
thanks for your help
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From: Northeast PA
Originally posted by drumsy
For the fronts, just use a simple C-clamp to push them in or vice grips. There's a lip on the underside of the cylinder to position the grips against and squeeze the caliper in. For the rears, I used a big ass screwdriver to screw them in. Make sure you line up the rears pistons though so when the pads go and and you apply the brakes, the piston closes correctly onto the studs on the back of the pads. You will want to eye this, but I believe the piston can be screwed till it reaches a parallel/perindicular postion, like the Red Cross symbol (or like this: "+") and they will fit directly on. Otherwise, you'll wear your rear pads out unevenly and prematurely. There's a little vent on the caliper that will allow you to see inside when the piston is closing. Have a buddy apply pressure to the brake SLOWLY to make sure it closes correctly, otherwise, remove the bolt to the caliper, slide up, remove pad and reposition piston.
Also, make sure you don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. You can do some damage here, so use strong twine or a wire hanger to tie it to your spring.
For the fronts, just use a simple C-clamp to push them in or vice grips. There's a lip on the underside of the cylinder to position the grips against and squeeze the caliper in. For the rears, I used a big ass screwdriver to screw them in. Make sure you line up the rears pistons though so when the pads go and and you apply the brakes, the piston closes correctly onto the studs on the back of the pads. You will want to eye this, but I believe the piston can be screwed till it reaches a parallel/perindicular postion, like the Red Cross symbol (or like this: "+") and they will fit directly on. Otherwise, you'll wear your rear pads out unevenly and prematurely. There's a little vent on the caliper that will allow you to see inside when the piston is closing. Have a buddy apply pressure to the brake SLOWLY to make sure it closes correctly, otherwise, remove the bolt to the caliper, slide up, remove pad and reposition piston.
Also, make sure you don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. You can do some damage here, so use strong twine or a wire hanger to tie it to your spring.
thanks man
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From: Beverly Hills, CA
Oh yeah Ice, when you're pushing the pistons in and such, keep an eye on your brake fluid reservoir, it can overflow when you push the pistons back in. mine did. 
just put a bunch of rags around it just in case....
just put a bunch of rags around it just in case....
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Northeast PA
Originally posted by Spec R
Oh yeah Ice, when you're pushing the pistons in and such, keep an eye on your brake fluid reservoir, it can overflow when you push the pistons back in. mine did.
just put a bunch of rags around it just in case....
Oh yeah Ice, when you're pushing the pistons in and such, keep an eye on your brake fluid reservoir, it can overflow when you push the pistons back in. mine did.
just put a bunch of rags around it just in case....
thanks for the tip
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Niagara Falls, Canada.
I used this site for reference when I did mine: http://www.ntpog.org/mods/fourth-brakes/index.shtml I know it's a Prelude, and some things may be a little different, but you get the idea. Good luck, eh!
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From: Boston, MA
Originally posted by drumsy
For the fronts, just use a simple C-clamp to push them in or vice grips. There's a lip on the underside of the cylinder to position the grips against and squeeze the caliper in. For the rears, I used a big ass screwdriver to screw them in. Make sure you line up the rears pistons though so when the pads go and and you apply the brakes, the piston closes correctly onto the studs on the back of the pads. You will want to eye this, but I believe the piston can be screwed till it reaches a parallel/perindicular postion, like the Red Cross symbol (or like this: "+") and they will fit directly on. Otherwise, you'll wear your rear pads out unevenly and prematurely. There's a little vent on the caliper that will allow you to see inside when the piston is closing. Have a buddy apply pressure to the brake SLOWLY to make sure it closes correctly, otherwise, remove the bolt to the caliper, slide up, remove pad and reposition piston.
Also, make sure you don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. You can do some damage here, so use strong twine or a wire hanger to tie it to your spring.
For the fronts, just use a simple C-clamp to push them in or vice grips. There's a lip on the underside of the cylinder to position the grips against and squeeze the caliper in. For the rears, I used a big ass screwdriver to screw them in. Make sure you line up the rears pistons though so when the pads go and and you apply the brakes, the piston closes correctly onto the studs on the back of the pads. You will want to eye this, but I believe the piston can be screwed till it reaches a parallel/perindicular postion, like the Red Cross symbol (or like this: "+") and they will fit directly on. Otherwise, you'll wear your rear pads out unevenly and prematurely. There's a little vent on the caliper that will allow you to see inside when the piston is closing. Have a buddy apply pressure to the brake SLOWLY to make sure it closes correctly, otherwise, remove the bolt to the caliper, slide up, remove pad and reposition piston.
Also, make sure you don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. You can do some damage here, so use strong twine or a wire hanger to tie it to your spring.
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Member
Joined: May 2003
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From: Northeast PA
the pads wont seat themselves, you gotta do it over. after you put it together have someone pull the ebrake up a few times and watch how it works. if it dosent sit right u gotta do it over