Beaks Quick Swap ITR Sway Install Story
Hey sorry guys, i dont have any pics, but i just finished installing my ITR sway bar and courtesy of Beaks Products. I must say, installation WOULD have went smoothly if it werent for those damned spot welded nuts (the last of the 6 took 4-6 hours worth of pounding, cussing, frustration, etc.), other than that, the install was relatively straight forward. Havent had a chance to test it yet, but it seems like theres already a huge difference in cornering ability.
My questions are based from the 15 minute drive i just took and is for those who have the Beaks kit...
Does the nut plate come scarily close to the LCA joint?
I get a clunk when i hit big bumps, is it the sway bar hitting my exhaust?
I have a few more questions but i'll just email Beaks. Thanks!
My questions are based from the 15 minute drive i just took and is for those who have the Beaks kit...
Does the nut plate come scarily close to the LCA joint?
I get a clunk when i hit big bumps, is it the sway bar hitting my exhaust?
I have a few more questions but i'll just email Beaks. Thanks!
__________________
DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
When will you guys learn... Use a relatively high powered drill, mount the bar enough to see where the holes should be drilled, drill the holes THROUGH the spotwelded bolts, then just peel away debris (2/3 to 3/4 of them will be gone)...
Also, why did you waste your money on the beaks kit when you could have just got the BSQ kit?
Also, why did you waste your money on the beaks kit when you could have just got the BSQ kit?
What do you mean, "when will you guys learn"?
I did use a high powered drill to drill through the spot welds, and it was still a pain to remove them. Dont jump to conclusions buddy, like you know the whole situation, this post was for Beaks kits owners anyway.
I've seen subframe tearout still occur on BSQ's kit so I dont consider the Beaks kit a "waste" of money. Besides, the BSQ kit is a great kit, I just didnt want the chance of irreversible damage (subframe tearout) to happen to my car. I got the Prothane bushings as well, and the Beaks Plates are much more beefy. A few people I know who are frequent track day runners at Buttonwillow and other tracks all recommend the Beaks kit over the BSQ kit. They pointed me to the Beaks kits especially since i have a heavier 4 door, as well as 100 plus extra pounds worth of stereo equipment in the trunk. The extra 40-50 bucks seemed very much worth while.
Wil, the dude behind Beaks Products was also a graduate of my College, and lives/works about 5 minutes away.
I did use a high powered drill to drill through the spot welds, and it was still a pain to remove them. Dont jump to conclusions buddy, like you know the whole situation, this post was for Beaks kits owners anyway.
I've seen subframe tearout still occur on BSQ's kit so I dont consider the Beaks kit a "waste" of money. Besides, the BSQ kit is a great kit, I just didnt want the chance of irreversible damage (subframe tearout) to happen to my car. I got the Prothane bushings as well, and the Beaks Plates are much more beefy. A few people I know who are frequent track day runners at Buttonwillow and other tracks all recommend the Beaks kit over the BSQ kit. They pointed me to the Beaks kits especially since i have a heavier 4 door, as well as 100 plus extra pounds worth of stereo equipment in the trunk. The extra 40-50 bucks seemed very much worth while.
Wil, the dude behind Beaks Products was also a graduate of my College, and lives/works about 5 minutes away.
__________________
DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205


