Just starting out.......
gsr2k - don't worry about it......I don't think I was real clear before.
I live in Wisconsin and don't want to have to worry about changing things in the summer/winter (i.e. drop, tires, etc.) so keep that in mind. Do you think that the rubber on there now cannot handle any mods (namely suspension)? I don't push it real hard, just some aggressive daily driving on occassion.
I live in Wisconsin and don't want to have to worry about changing things in the summer/winter (i.e. drop, tires, etc.) so keep that in mind. Do you think that the rubber on there now cannot handle any mods (namely suspension)? I don't push it real hard, just some aggressive daily driving on occassion.
Hmmmm...after getting my car, the first big mod was lowering it.
Then my friend gave me a free intake, and a free strut bar. All within the first 10 days of having it.
But if you're starting from scratch, dont rush anything. I speak on the behalf of many others when i say this, "do it right the first time".
Go for the suspension mods first. (dont lower without getting good shocks, dont follow my example) FYI, suspension pieces for a coupe or a sedan are the same.
One mod i highly recommend is a good short shifter and bushings. I waited almost 2 years to get mine, and i regret it badly, i wish i got it like within the first month of ownership. Its relatively inexpensive and changes the feel for driving dramatically.
Wow, i sound like a FOB. o well hope i helped
Then my friend gave me a free intake, and a free strut bar. All within the first 10 days of having it.
But if you're starting from scratch, dont rush anything. I speak on the behalf of many others when i say this, "do it right the first time".
Go for the suspension mods first. (dont lower without getting good shocks, dont follow my example) FYI, suspension pieces for a coupe or a sedan are the same.
One mod i highly recommend is a good short shifter and bushings. I waited almost 2 years to get mine, and i regret it badly, i wish i got it like within the first month of ownership. Its relatively inexpensive and changes the feel for driving dramatically.
Wow, i sound like a FOB. o well hope i helped
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2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
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2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
Originally posted by pnthr30
I live in Wisconsin and don't want to have to worry about changing things in the summer/winter (i.e. drop, tires, etc.) so keep that in mind. Do you think that the rubber on there now cannot handle any mods (namely suspension)? I don't push it real hard, just some aggressive daily driving on occassion.
I live in Wisconsin and don't want to have to worry about changing things in the summer/winter (i.e. drop, tires, etc.) so keep that in mind. Do you think that the rubber on there now cannot handle any mods (namely suspension)? I don't push it real hard, just some aggressive daily driving on occassion.
The stock rubber will be ok if it's in good shape. It seems trite, but everyone forgets: the tires are the only part of the car that touches the road. Good suspension and good brakes wont mean anything if the tires give up in a turn.
Originally posted by pnthr30
Definitely not going to turbo this car. This is just a daily driver that I want to make a little more fun. I am not going to race it so I am not concerned about going REALLY fast, I am content with going kinda fast and having a good time along the way.
Definitely not going to turbo this car. This is just a daily driver that I want to make a little more fun. I am not going to race it so I am not concerned about going REALLY fast, I am content with going kinda fast and having a good time along the way.
Originally posted by gsr2k
I didn't want to be bothered with switching tires/rims etc, so I went with a decent all-season tire (Toyo Proxies FZ4s). I think a resonable set of tires (you may need them anyway @55k miles) and a reasonable drop would be OK for Wisconsin, but I dont live there so don't quote me
The stock rubber will be ok if it's in good shape. It seems trite, but everyone forgets: the tires are the only part of the car that touches the road. Good suspension and good brakes wont mean anything if the tires give up in a turn.
I didn't want to be bothered with switching tires/rims etc, so I went with a decent all-season tire (Toyo Proxies FZ4s). I think a resonable set of tires (you may need them anyway @55k miles) and a reasonable drop would be OK for Wisconsin, but I dont live there so don't quote me
The stock rubber will be ok if it's in good shape. It seems trite, but everyone forgets: the tires are the only part of the car that touches the road. Good suspension and good brakes wont mean anything if the tires give up in a turn.
Originally posted by Spec R
One mod i highly recommend is a good short shifter and bushings. I waited almost 2 years to get mine, and i regret it badly, i wish i got it like within the first month of ownership. Its relatively inexpensive and changes the feel for driving dramatically.
One mod i highly recommend is a good short shifter and bushings. I waited almost 2 years to get mine, and i regret it badly, i wish i got it like within the first month of ownership. Its relatively inexpensive and changes the feel for driving dramatically.

What kind?
How much will it cost?
Is it a DIY for a novice?
for the suspension since you use your car all year round like me, i'd recommend ground control coilover sleeves and kyb agx shocks, you'll love it (well i do). in the winter, you can raise the car back up to stock height and during the nice sunny days, you can lower it according to your taste.
for the short shifter, i have the skunk2 dual bend and its nice. it sits like a stock shifter plus you can use your stock shift knob. i dont like those shifters w/ the plastic adapter and allen bolts... they rattle after a while...
well goodluck
for the short shifter, i have the skunk2 dual bend and its nice. it sits like a stock shifter plus you can use your stock shift knob. i dont like those shifters w/ the plastic adapter and allen bolts... they rattle after a while...
well goodluck
Originally posted by pnthr30
How much would this setup cost?
How much would this setup cost?
300-375 on the AGX's (possibly cheaper, depending on who you go through)
I have a B&M short shifter with prothane bushings. I got a good deal on it, so i coughed up the extra 40 bucks to get it installed. Chris at Autolink did it in like 40 minutes. Handed over the keys, went to mcdonalds, by the time i was back, i waited less than 5 minutes and he was done. If i did it myself, it would have taken me 40 minutes just to jack up my car high enough.
my car is so low my jack doesnt go underneath until i raise the side of the car with the factory scissor jack, and i cant use the radiator support as a jacking point because of the damage inflicted when i crashed. so i have to use the tow hooks, one side at a time. i dont mind doing this all the time, but not for a short shifter install where i would have barely any room to work around. O yeah, my parents dont like it when i work on my car, because they think i should be studying. so thats another factor.
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DB Squad
Integra Forum Moderator
2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205
DB Squad
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2016 BMW 340i M-Sport / 2013 Chevrolet Volt / 1999 Subaru Impreza RS EJ205


