I have a 1995 LS SE with factory aluminum wheels. I've installed Yokohama AVS ES100 205/45-16 tires. Currently have EBC Greenstuff brake pads.

Question - can anyone recommend a good type/brand of brake rotor to replace my worn-out stock rotors with? I don't race, and I value performance more than aesthetics.

Maybe a slotted or drilled rotor, but I'm wanting a good, steady, smooth, and reliable stop from them.

Anyone have lots of experience with multiple types of rotors that can share some real-world advice with me?

Thanks in advance.

 

Plain Brembo replacement rotors (commonly referred to as "blanks") with no slots or holes will work just fine.

 

I have Slotted Brembo's and frankly, it's not worth it. I get fade just as quickly as I did before.

Go with some Brembo Blanks, as Fatass said.... you wont be disappointed.

 

A lot of track guys and myself normally just go for Autozone rotors. As funny as it sounds, the cheap rotors last and allow you to focus on upgrading other brake pads, such as pads, lines, and fluid. It's a proven fact that slotted and crossdrilled rotors can be more of a hinderance than a help, so just going the cheap route with rotors seems to be the most economical. I've had mine on since middle of last year, no problems yet! I've got two track days under my belt!

 

No warpage? Damn, my stock rotors were starting to warp after 1 year, and that was just day to day driving, primarily highway.

 

I had the same problem, caused by heavy braking right before parking the car. After I had the rotors turned (complete waste of money) I made sure to avoid jamming on the brakes right before I parked the car. I'm still on the original set of rotors @ 40,000 miles + a few track days and autocross sessions, and no signs of warping.

Shingo

 

there are two main causes of warped rotors:
1. Improperly torqued lug nuts, they should all be at 80 lb/ft.

2. Braking hard and stopping completely. after you brake hard, you dont want to let the pads keep squeezing the hot rotors. but i know you cant always do this.

 

Rotors don't actually warp. There was a huge article about this somewhere... the problem is caused by a fusion of the brake pad material w/ the rotor, building up in the same spot.

It is very important not to leave the pads on the rotors when they are hot; aka e-brake is evil.

As for which ones... brembo blanks from www.nopi.com are your best bet.

 

I have 107K on original rotors and pads, but that is mostly highwy, actually, all highway. Never parked on hot brakes, always used a torque wrench on lugs. Pads are just about done and rotors are perfect still

Just noticed, what stock 16" wheels came on an integra?
A lot of problems with fade are more from the fluid boiling than the pads or rotors