GSR setup / input requested
#1
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GSR setup / input requested
Comptech intake w/ice box
Inlarged throttle body 65-70mm
Skunk2 intake manifold
Skunk2 stage1 race cams
Portflow valve springs
DC 4-1 stainless header
Apexi N1 catback exhaust
Been doing alot of research and this is what I came up with. I should have most of these mods completed by summer. Been saving for a bit now and I just got a raise *wink*
Question for you all...
How much Hp do you think Ill be putting to the wheels? My goal was around 190-200 and what type of time could I pull in 1/4mile. I know how to drive
Thanks for input guys! much appreciated...
-Chad C.
Inlarged throttle body 65-70mm
Skunk2 intake manifold
Skunk2 stage1 race cams
Portflow valve springs
DC 4-1 stainless header
Apexi N1 catback exhaust
Been doing alot of research and this is what I came up with. I should have most of these mods completed by summer. Been saving for a bit now and I just got a raise *wink*
Question for you all...
How much Hp do you think Ill be putting to the wheels? My goal was around 190-200 and what type of time could I pull in 1/4mile. I know how to drive
Thanks for input guys! much appreciated...
-Chad C.
#3
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I want to keep it street legal for the most part. Also remaining comfortable to drive. I dont want to have to worry about my stock ECU either. If I get stage 2 cams Ill need to raise my rev limiter to 9k or higher which I dont want to do. The stage 1's are designed to work with stock internals, but from what was told by Fatbooty its a good idea to get the portflow valve springs to be safe..
-Chad
So with what I listed, what should I be pushing... and times? Thanks
-Chad
So with what I listed, what should I be pushing... and times? Thanks
#4
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THat a very similar setup to what i'm planning on doing. But to properly use the stage 1 cams(or any other cam) you need to have to properly tune them on a dyno with a hondadata and cam gears, I'm, with tiger though, the exhaust system is a bit restrictive yet. Try a header with a 2.5 inch collector, with a 2.5 cat and a 2.5 inch cat-back, i like the hytech, but it is VERY pricey. Also i think a 70mm throttle body is a little large for a n/a teg. BUt all in all its a good setup from what i've heard, you should be push upwards of 190whp, i think, on a GS-R anyway.
#5
Originally posted by TriDawg
I want to keep it street legal for the most part. Also remaining comfortable to drive. I dont want to have to worry about my stock ECU either. If I get stage 2 cams Ill need to raise my rev limiter to 9k or higher which I dont want to do. The stage 1's are designed to work with stock internals, but from what was told by Fatbooty its a good idea to get the portflow valve springs to be safe..
-Chad
So with what I listed, what should I be pushing... and times? Thanks
I want to keep it street legal for the most part. Also remaining comfortable to drive. I dont want to have to worry about my stock ECU either. If I get stage 2 cams Ill need to raise my rev limiter to 9k or higher which I dont want to do. The stage 1's are designed to work with stock internals, but from what was told by Fatbooty its a good idea to get the portflow valve springs to be safe..
-Chad
So with what I listed, what should I be pushing... and times? Thanks
Secondly, your stock rev limiter is fine for stage 2s.
#6
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You sure there won't be a lot of bumping off the limiter with stage 2's? I'm looking at a dyno of a car with JUN Type-III cams (for those who don't know, the skunk stage 2 are essentially a copy of these) and the torque curve keeps going up until 8500 RPM which is where the power peaks at. Power at 9300 RPM (where this dyno plot ends) is equal to power at 8300 RPM which is to say slightly below peak in both cases.
That said, there's nothing unstreetable about these cams. You do need to raise your compression ratio to get the most out of them and some headwork helps too, but they are totally liveable on a day-to-day basis.
Finally, stock ITR motors benefit from 2.5" exhaust systems. Which is why in '98 Honda started equipping JDM versions of the ITR with 2.5" exhausts from the factory.
With the stock ECU (and thus the stock limiter) tuned with a V-AFC, the skunk2 stage 2 cams, and a 2.5" exhaust you should be able to hit 200 hp to the wheels without going into the bottom end of the motor. The only issue is that the power peak will be right at the rev limiter, which is mildly annoying. Otherwise you could get an OBD-1 conversion harness and a lowe model of a Hondata ECU tuned on a dyno for a couple hours which would allow you higher revs and have even tighter tuning.
The one thing is, that with the stage 2 cams you will need to upgrade the valvetrain with all new springs and retainers as opposed to being able to get away with just the Portflow springs if you go with the stage 1's. With the setup you've proposed as is, I would expect about 185 hp to the wheels tops. Not bad, but not insanely amazing either.
That said, there's nothing unstreetable about these cams. You do need to raise your compression ratio to get the most out of them and some headwork helps too, but they are totally liveable on a day-to-day basis.
Finally, stock ITR motors benefit from 2.5" exhaust systems. Which is why in '98 Honda started equipping JDM versions of the ITR with 2.5" exhausts from the factory.
With the stock ECU (and thus the stock limiter) tuned with a V-AFC, the skunk2 stage 2 cams, and a 2.5" exhaust you should be able to hit 200 hp to the wheels without going into the bottom end of the motor. The only issue is that the power peak will be right at the rev limiter, which is mildly annoying. Otherwise you could get an OBD-1 conversion harness and a lowe model of a Hondata ECU tuned on a dyno for a couple hours which would allow you higher revs and have even tighter tuning.
The one thing is, that with the stage 2 cams you will need to upgrade the valvetrain with all new springs and retainers as opposed to being able to get away with just the Portflow springs if you go with the stage 1's. With the setup you've proposed as is, I would expect about 185 hp to the wheels tops. Not bad, but not insanely amazing either.
#7
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I would be more then content pushing 185 to the wheels with a 1.8Liter NA car. I might just go with that. Right now with the car stock.. Im bound to shoot my eye out. Its quick, so with the mods listed above I think Ill be more then satisfied with the outcome.
One question that didnt get answered. With 185 to the wheels.. NA , what might I pull in a quarter mile if I get a good run.
Thanks
-Chad
One question that didnt get answered. With 185 to the wheels.. NA , what might I pull in a quarter mile if I get a good run.
Thanks
-Chad
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Well i/h/e GSRs pushing around 155-160 to the wheels tend to run in the high 14-second range. With the extra oomph from the cams and such coming on mainly in the upper portion of the RPMs I'd say you'd be in the mid-low 14's.
Even if you stick with the stage 1's it would be a good idea to get a header with a 2.5" collector, a 2.5" hi-flow cat and a 2.5" exhaust; and also something to tune the car with along the lines of a V-AFC or something.
Even if you stick with the stage 1's it would be a good idea to get a header with a 2.5" collector, a 2.5" hi-flow cat and a 2.5" exhaust; and also something to tune the car with along the lines of a V-AFC or something.