what are good ones to get for a 98+ integra GSR that will produce the most gains? Is it a possible DIY job for a home-garage? or must it be done at a shop? Also what are the expected costs?
thx
-Brian

 

What other sorts of parts are you going to be combining this with? The right set of cams depends on what else has been done to the motor and what sort of power increase you have in mind.

 

umm sorry i guess i haven't given the question enough thought and/or i don't know enough about things to be asking such questions.
what would happen if u had nothing but the camshafts?
otherwise i guess i'll say they can be combined w/ the basic I/H/E

are there any recommendations as to what parts in combination with a good set of camshafts would be needed for maximum gains as possible?

sorry if these are n00by questions but i don't know

 

Yes it can be done in a home garage (installation).

But there are many, many, many different types of cams. I'll give a brief overview. You want to just drop them in and run? CTR/ITR or any "Stage 1" cam will do. You'll retain stock idle and stock redline, and gain maybe 5 - 10 whp w/tuning.

Go with more aggressive cams + tuning and you'll maybe see 20 whp, but mind you the more aggressive cams shift the powerband further up (6,000 -> 9,000 rpm) You can't just drop these in without changing some vital engine internals to allow your engine to rev higher (to take advantage of the powerband) without floating a valve and whatnot. JUN Stage 3 or Skunk Stage 2 cams fall into this category. JUN3's are famous for retaining some characteristics of the stock idle, but usually your car will have a very lumpy idle.

It takes a considerable bit of money to get a GSR going on the all-motor route. You may want to try doing a search.

Shingo


ps. You're going to need cam gears and at the least a V-AFC to take full advantage of whatever cams you do get. Tuning is not a DIY project.

 

so lets say you've got i/h/e, would cams and cam gears be the next step in tuning (if you're going the NA route)?

I've heard Skunk2 stage 1 cams retains stock idles (meaning it's not lumpy), can anyone concur with this?

 

If you have I/H/E the next step before opening up the engine is a hi-flo cat. You'll need to plan out accordingly to avoid having cams that make power from 7000-9000 rpm but be stuck with an engine that can only rev to 8100 rpm.

Skunk2 Stage1s do retain stock idle. Actually I think JUN Stage1-3's do a pretty good job as well but they cost a bundle more.

Shingo

 

Ok I will do some research in the near future
Just thought i'd do as much hw as i can b4 i obtain a nifty GSR for myself (still in search). so i am a n00b.
Shingo: what exactly is going on when u say "w/ tuning" ?
also, u mentioned that it's necessary to "change some vital engine internals to allow your engine to rev higher"
what kinda internals? if it's too many then let me know and i'll google it
and u mentioned that it's real costly for the all-motor style so do u suggest savin' up and strappin a turbo to that piece?
i apologize again for my n00biness
-Bri

 

As I understand tuning is altering your fuel curve, vtec engagement point, ignition timing and whatnot, and in this case, adjusting your cam gears for the purposes of achieving a desirable power curve(measured on the dyno your car will be on).

Internals? I forget the exact specifics but I can say right off the bat stronger valvesprings and retainers.

If you want max power forced induction is the best and most cost-effective way to go.

Shingo

 

hi-flo cats are relatively inexpensive am i correct? 100-200 bucks? doesn't one usually get one when they get an exhaust? i always thought thats what ppl meant when they said cat-back but i guess i am wrong! haha i feel dumb

 

If your going NA I'd change my tranny out first. You'll be so surprized at what a difference a 98 up JDM R tranny would do for you. My firend has a 95 GSR, I/H/E skunk im, spoon exhaust, spoon prepped tranny, stock ecu. 13.7! He was running 14.5 before the tranny swap.