also 2 piece rotors are the way to go but are more expensive cuz you pay for hte lighter weight and they are known to be less prone to warpage

 

So this break in period is stop 3 times from 60mph?

 

you might want to double check the break in period. i was told to do slow downs from 40mph and avoid hard braking for a stop and go period of driving for 20 or so mins....maybe the shop guy was buing ....:dunno: i was told not to do hard stops.

 

Rotors don't warp because they have holes or slots in them. Rotors warp due to improper torquing of lug nuts. Yes, they will warp in one day if the wheels aren't torqued down right. I know about the fiasco revolving around the shop where antarius had his rotors put on, I wouldn't be surprised if they just used some air tools to pop the lugnuts on without checking to see if they were torqued to spec.

Brembo continues to market them because a plain rotor is a $30 OEM-replacement part while a drilled/slotted/dimpled/whatever rotor is a "performance" part which can be sold for quadruple the price.

 

This is a suggested break-in procedure that I found on the web (might have been the Brembo site):

Should new discs and pads be bedded in and if so, how?
The answer is yes, for optimum performance, any time different friction materials or discs are introduced, a bedding procedure should be carried out.
· While the vehicle is stationary, pump brakes to ensure a firm pedal.
· Drive the vehicle cautiously to test fit and function.
· The brakes should be smooth, with no vibrations, judder, etc.
· Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least ½ mile between each brake application.
· The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces.
· After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for several miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.
· After the above process is completed, the system is ready for normal use.
· When the system achieves elevated brake temperatures for the first time, a slight increase in pedal travel and pedal effort may occur. After this first "fade" and proper cooling, the system will maintain its optimum performance at all temperatures.


Gordon.

 

Yeah I read somewhere to do ten 60-0 braking sessions in increasing intensity. Then let cool. :dunno:

 

That's called bedding in the pads. When you have a fresh surface to work with (i.e. a new or resurfaced rotor) you want to build up a layer of pad material on the rotor to make sure everything works alright. That won't really affect the rotors other than put them through a few heat cycles. It won't hurt, but bedding in your pads isn't some rotor fail-safe.

The best way to keep your rotors from warping is to keep the lug nuts torqued to spec. If you want to get some added durability you can have the rotors cryo-treated.

 

cryo-treated?

 

Actually, the site I was reading was by some guy who says he's been racing for like 30 years. He says that rotors do not actually get "warped" at all but the pulsating you feel when braking hard is from random buildup of pad material on the rotor from not properly bedding them. I'll look for the link, I think it was posted by MojoGS-R on g2ic.com or something.

 

The pulsing can be from either uneven pad buildup or form warped rotors. Bedding in the pads helps them wear more evenly, torquing your lugnuts down to spec helps keep the rotors from warping.

For info on cryo treating: www.onecryo.com