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doing a valve adjustment?

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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 11:25 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by gsrclan
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You'll need to re-torque the crank pulley bolt after adjusting the vale per helms manual.
The crank pulley bolt doesn't have to be loosened at all for a valve adjustment.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 11:32 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Däs Schmoo
The crank pulley bolt doesn't have to be loosened at all for a valve adjustment.
right, but in the helms manual it does say to do it. since you've been turning the engine over with that bolt, i guess it's a safety check against potentially loosening it. i think the risk is minimal though.

btw, 95gsracura, it's a bit more of a pain in the ass on the GS-R. just remember that when you're measuring clearances, that the slight drag you're feeling is not because the feeler gauge is in there crooked. what i do is tighten the clearance to the point where the feeler gauge the next thickness up won't fit.

also, remember to check and to recheck. make sure you're working on the right cylinder at all times!
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 10:44 AM
  #13  
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I did not need any special tools for the valve adjustment (or belt tension adjustment). All went pretty much according to the manual. 12-mm socket to loosen the nut, 12-mm wrench to hold it in place while the screw is adjusted using a screwdriver, socket to tighten the nut again, normal straight feeler gauge set (less than $5 at any part store). New gasket set went on very easily, after I finished cleaning all the old crud off the cover and the head.

I assume the B18A1 engine has a different head from the vtec engines, so that probably accounts for the need for a special tool and for angled feeler gauges.

What was interesting was that the exhaust side was in spec, but the intake side was not. Not sure if that is normal for this engine.

Unfortunately it made no difference in the noise... :happysad:

I noticed that the team integra article on valve adjustment does not list the same valve clearance spec for the B18A engine as on page 6-4 of the Honda B18A1 manual, so there is a possibility it does not make as much difference as I thought anyway...

Valve adjustment:



Gasket Replacement:

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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 06:41 AM
  #14  
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I did the valve adjustment this weekend on my 97 gsr while I was doing the t belt. Even with the special tool it's a pain, especially on piston 3 and 4, took me 3 hr.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 09:54 AM
  #15  
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I just did my adjustment las night and some parts were a pain. I had some trouble keeping the screw from turning with the nut, even after tightening the nut while keeping the screw in place with a screwdriver. But it all came out right in the end. Took me like 2 1/2 hours tho h:
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 11:43 AM
  #16  
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Did anyone notice a difference in valve noise or engine noise in general after adjusting the valves? I did not notice any.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 03:07 PM
  #17  
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Last time I did it they clicked for about 50 miles. I heard thats normal tho h:
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 03:59 PM
  #18  
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I don't know how it'll sound this time, I haven't put it back together yet. Last time I had it done at the dealer, after I picked it up, the car smoked all the way to my house. i didn't see the white smoke until I got home bc its after 9PM and its dark, and my gf told me she saw it skmoke all the way from the dealership (she's driving behind me). I swear I could hear something strange in the engine. I had to take it to the dealer the next day because they were closed. By the time I got there the smoke's gone and the strange noise didn't sound that strange anymore, go figure h:
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