Overtightening those bolts will also make it leak. That and warping your oilpan by driving over shit and smacking it.

 

black is oem, blue is just aftermarket, dont overtighten and DO NOT put gasket sealant or any other junk on the gaskets, it creates weak points in the seal and could easily start leaking again, if you were suppose to put sealer on the gaskets they wouldnt have made them out of rubber

 

If that were true, why do you have to put hondabond on the corners of the valve cover gasket, which is obviously rubber?

 

im not the one who tighten the bolts. the stupid mechanic did. Im gonna bring it to a acura guru

 

The Helms indicates putting Hondabond at four points near the corners... and when taking off the original oilpan gasket, there were traces of old gasket sealant placed there from the factory. Gaskets are rubber, which ages and gets hard... and then need to be replaced. The thread starter's gsr is a 95, so his car is over 11 years old, no wonder that gasket was leaking.

and in terms of the bolts, one just finger tighten all six bolts. Then in the indicated cross pattern starting from the middle, they get tightened to only 10 lbf-ft. My bf used an extra long extension on his socket wrench just to make sure that he didn't overtighten the bolts.

 

cool, cool. Just get it done right.

 

on the engine stiffners and flywheel cover do they have to be torqued when put back on???? If so what are the torque specs?

 

Do you have a Haynes or Helms manual? It would be very beneficial to own 1 or even both!

 

I eat, breathe and shit the Helms manual, so here are the torque specs:

Oil pan bolts: 9 ft/lbs

Flywheel cover 10mm bolts: 9 ft/lbs

Flywheel cover 12mm bolts: 17 ft/lbs

Engine stiffener 12mm bolts: 17 ft/lbs

Engine stiffener 17mm bolts: 42 ft/lbs

 

thanks schmoo