Hows your clutch? Obviously something is wrong if you're getting beaten by cars that you should beat. Have you checked the plugs to look for signs of richness? Blowing any smoke?

 

With the mugen p28, there is no ks so I wouldn't worry about that..

What is "225ish?" What are the numbers in each cylinder?

A compression test is a good quick test to let you know that the compression rings are sealing properly and your valves are not bent, but I would definitely still get a leakdown test done. This will give you a more complete picture of the condition of your motor.

Another thing to look into is your timing belt & then ignition timing; it could be off by a tooth or so and it will cause your car to not run that well. Especially if you haven't already compensated for the decked/milled head...This throws timing off. Do you know how much was taken off of the head?

 

225 last time I checked each cylinder. I don't know what a Leakdown is. And The timing belt is dead on. I just replaced the headgasket. Now the distro being off maybe. I have it right in the middle. And the Head being decked I never asked but I can call the place up and see what they shaved off.

 

Get a timing light and check the ignition timing. Also recheck cam timing, its possible to have jumped a tooth or two on one or both of the gears. How long ago did you check compression?

 

it's the knock sensor, you need it, or need to foold the computer at least, for it to even engage the vtec lobes

this seems about right now to what you are saying as the gsr lower cams i believe are tuned to a lower rpm than the ls cams, so in effect you'll rev it to about 7k and stop making power around 4 or 5, and most likely you'll see better acelleration shifiting at 5 or 6k vs what you are.


put in a knock sensor or fool it.

 

If you read the thread, you'd know that he's running a p28 with mugen chip, which doesn't look for a knock sensor. If it did, his CEL would be on.

 

ooops, well were looking outside of the engine since compression seemed good

try hooking up a test light to the selenoid to see if vtec is engaging. if it is then i'd want to see if the clutch is worn, after that i'd probably check for frozen brake calipers

:edit: alright, so maybe i'd be easier to check the brakes first, but i just listed shit as i thought of it

 

VTEC hits hard! Sounds Wayyyyyyy Diffrent then it not being on. I know VTEC works. I just checked and my fuel pressure is at 20psi. I have a stock Regulator on there cause B&m was leaking. Maybe that could be it? When I give it gas it goes up to 40psi.

 

If your head is milled anymore than .012", it is most likely your cam timing. For every 12 thousands of an inch milled, it will retard your cam timing by 1 degree. I repeat, you will need to compensate your cam timing if your head is milled unless it's really minute...then again, if it's that minimal, your compression wouldn't be so high.

Just curious, did you guys open up the valve reliefs on your stock pistons at all? The reason I ask is because with your head being milled and all, may cause piston-to-valve contact (also depending how much was taken off the head).

 

Im gonna call them up today and ask. I dought it was much because I asked him about shaving it down some and he said There is no need if keeping gsr cams. The pistons are stock and nothing is done to them. I took the head off when I did the headgasket after it being on for 3 months and nothing looked outta place with the valves. I should Have pored some alcahole on the top of the head to see if it was leaking but there really was nothing outta place. Im gonna recheck the timing this weekend but Im almost 100% sure it's on tight. It's brand new and so is the water pump. Ehh lets see what happends. Im gonna order another gsr fuel regulator to see if it boosts up the pressure.