Timing belt install next week
ok well here are the pics, enjoy
dont loose that KEY!!!

looking from underneath

this must come off to get the bottom cover off

w/o bottom cover

make sure these are lined up!

do you have all your parts? Only thing I didnt use was the new pump gasket. the old one was thicker and fit way better, and was still looking good. the new one fit crapy and kept falling out of its groove.

what i did here was mark the top tooth with white out the place the new belt ontop of the old belt and mark the 2 teeth on the sides of the top tooth. this way i will know that i am not a tooth off!

even though the rad. was drained and removed along with other lines, there were still some fluid left. make sure you put somethere to catch it so it doesnt ruin your assphalt like it did mine

keep bolts in thier proper "place". some are different lengths

remove this for better access, BTW i kept the PS line there, and had no problem

slack before proper tension

as you can see my marks are off by one tooth, BUT they are both off which means IM GOLDEN!


that pic is with proper tension. what you must do is tighten the teinsor pulley and crank the motor over 6 times. then loosen the teinsor bolt and watch the pulley tighten the belt up. then crank it down to 40lbs.
Ill be posting the whole process from my haynes manual VERY SOON
This pic is of the bottome cover bolt. I BROKE IT and will be trying to replace it. i probably wont need to but im anial like that

if anyone has questions PM me or type some here
dont loose that KEY!!!

looking from underneath

this must come off to get the bottom cover off

w/o bottom cover

make sure these are lined up!

do you have all your parts? Only thing I didnt use was the new pump gasket. the old one was thicker and fit way better, and was still looking good. the new one fit crapy and kept falling out of its groove.

what i did here was mark the top tooth with white out the place the new belt ontop of the old belt and mark the 2 teeth on the sides of the top tooth. this way i will know that i am not a tooth off!

even though the rad. was drained and removed along with other lines, there were still some fluid left. make sure you put somethere to catch it so it doesnt ruin your assphalt like it did mine

keep bolts in thier proper "place". some are different lengths

remove this for better access, BTW i kept the PS line there, and had no problem

slack before proper tension

as you can see my marks are off by one tooth, BUT they are both off which means IM GOLDEN!


that pic is with proper tension. what you must do is tighten the teinsor pulley and crank the motor over 6 times. then loosen the teinsor bolt and watch the pulley tighten the belt up. then crank it down to 40lbs.
Ill be posting the whole process from my haynes manual VERY SOON
This pic is of the bottome cover bolt. I BROKE IT and will be trying to replace it. i probably wont need to but im anial like that

if anyone has questions PM me or type some here
Last edited by rugsr; Feb 1, 2006 at 10:59 AM.
Originally Posted by honura
Just a thought and all I did was skim through the complete post. But you can not use an extention when trying to take off the Crank bolt. When you do this it makes all the power go right into the extention. I would go back to using an impact socket and the breaker bar/rachet, with the 4 foot pipe. I guess the longer the better on the pipe. Tell your friend to hold the brakes down extremly hard. Sorry if it sounds stupid or if you have already tried it. But this is the only way if the gun does not work.
That's funny, I've used an extension every time I've done the crank pulley bolt...and long enough to stick out past the fender too.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Originally Posted by dubcac
That's funny, I've used an extension every time I've done the crank pulley bolt...and long enough to stick out past the fender too.
Originally Posted by rugsr
Well its time. Ill be doing the timing belt next week.
Ive searched this topic here for bout an hour and on team-integra too. i also have the hayes manual, print outs and pics so im good to go. ONLY THING is, i couldnt find how to adjust the valves and do i need to. its a 95 GSR with 91k in good running condition. any info is welcomed. thanks
BTW what is TDC, i see it mentioned a lot but what is it
Ive searched this topic here for bout an hour and on team-integra too. i also have the hayes manual, print outs and pics so im good to go. ONLY THING is, i couldnt find how to adjust the valves and do i need to. its a 95 GSR with 91k in good running condition. any info is welcomed. thanks
BTW what is TDC, i see it mentioned a lot but what is it


