what i suggest...find a good trail for all the wiring... (i.e. under the center console, through the bottom of the seats under the carpet... then you can just take some electric tape... tape the RCA's and the remote wire in kind of like a barber shop style then run the power wire down the same area ... together if you'd like (but that becomes very hard to make it smooth and unnoticable, then it all gets hooked up in the back

*i suggest removing your back seat (at least the bottom part) and running the wire through there, directly on the side of the center console... and the power wire down the passenger side of the car*

edit: yes 1 farad should be enough for just the one amp... any more and you may need to get another cap...
ps. notice the proper spelling... it's not an animal....lol

 

ok i ran everything through the door panel on the side under the carpet. i ran the rca on 1 side and the remote and power wire on the other side. and the only wire i see is the power and remote but just barely. you cant see it unless i point it out. next will be the head unit and the minor detail of hooking all the amps and wire/rca/remote....

 

cool...let us know how it goes...and pics too

 

I would suggest that you run another 4 gauge cable, one for each amp especially if you are most likely placing the amps in the hatch area behind the rear seats. Those amps are going to need a lot of current from the battery for you to run them how the meant to be. I would also suggest that you replace your ground wire from your battery to your chassis. On a stock Teg the wire is too small for this kind of system. Just get a 4 gauge or 2 gauge chunk and replace it. You only need about a foot or less. This will also help with the current draw.

 

im not trying to run a power house. and im not trying to bump it that loud. the JL 12" W7 dont really need that great amount of powers. i ran a 12" JL W6 before on the same supplies im using on this teg and i had no problem. i had an 2 MTX amps and it was running just fine. i had the ground wire in the trunk where the spare tire was and it worked fine.

 

Just trying to let you know that if you want your amps to run cool and get the current they need I would personnally run another 4 gauge wire or run a 2 gauge instead of the two 4's. Wal-Mart of all places sells an actually decent 4 gauge kit for under $30 compared to the overpriced kits at any other major electronics store. But if you want it how you had it before than by all means just run the one and split it to both amps.

I would still replace your ground wire connecting your negative battery post and chassis. It is only a foot or so and your car's electrical system will thank you.

 

he's not talking about the ground wire from the amps --> chassis... if you look at your battery, on the black (negative) terminal, you have a wire that is about (8-10g), to maximize the flow and performance, that wire should be replaced with a larger piece (4-2g). just to ensure battery life/sub life/amp life. generally you can do it with the excess you have left over

 

I would skip the cap and look into a Optima battery: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...ghlight=optima

 

4 guage should be suffcient for it. i'd suggest cutting in an inline fuse coming from the battery on the 4gauge just in case, but 4 gauge is some heavy shit

 

thank you! You summed up my thoughts up nicely.