installing a vtec head on a 90 rs teg
Originally Posted by [Damnit]
well because the LS pistons aren't built for that high RPMS
i was in the process of doing a ls/v swap and eventually changed my mind to go w/ boost...i suggest you do lots of research on several things
a) power gains w/ both builds
b) min and max costs of both builds
c) reliability
i did about 4 months of research on all of those topics and i decided to boost for several reasons...if u think ur ready for the full ls/v though....have another 500-1000 ready in the bank for when u realize u need something else....or stupid shit like that...definately can cost ya
hope this helps
a) power gains w/ both builds
b) min and max costs of both builds
c) reliability
i did about 4 months of research on all of those topics and i decided to boost for several reasons...if u think ur ready for the full ls/v though....have another 500-1000 ready in the bank for when u realize u need something else....or stupid shit like that...definately can cost ya
hope this helps
Originally Posted by teg92
Ls vtec wouldnt be realiable unless if the bottom end was built.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/lsvtec/lsvtec.php
heres a write up on it Good Luck!
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/lsvtec/lsvtec.php
heres a write up on it Good Luck!
LS/VTEC is as realiable as the next hybrid motor, if put together correct, granted if u have a 150,xxx mile ls motor i'd suggest in replacing the usually, gaskets, rings and rod bolts, possible some seals and what not.. but other then that.. your fine, ls/vtec in short is almost a bolt up situation, grab a ls/vtec kit from golden eagle and go from there.. its usually a weekend put together but it takes time, specs have to be made, and yes you need to get a vtec ecu..in short, ls/vtec will probably yeild you using all stock parts around 180is'-190ish wheel hp, i've seen some stock ls/vtec's go good for 14.3's at the track..pretty quick, i'm sure with some i/h/e mods and some cams u could break 13's easily..thats my input, being i've built like 6 of em, not like i know anything..tho.
YOU DON'T NEED A FULLY BUILT BOTTOM END FOR 8000 RPM. Just rod bolts. Shit, I've even seen BONE STOCK LS and B20 bottom ends hold up to 8200rpm and 12psi...but I wouldn't risk it.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
Originally Posted by dubcac
YOU DON'T NEED A FULLY BUILT BOTTOM END FOR 8000 RPM. Just rod bolts. Shit, I've even seen BONE STOCK LS and B20 bottom ends hold up to 8200rpm and 12psi...but I wouldn't risk it.
ARP Rod bolts are cheap insurance against something catastrophic like a spun rod bearing.
Can you rev up to 8k+ on a stock LS block? Yes.
Will it last very long without proper reinforcements? No.


