Build Costs...
Allright I've got a little under 2k right now and I know I need more,
Goals:
1) Have my block bored to a 2.0L GSR
2) Preparing for turbo...
Pretty much looking at a crower bottom end, so one of my questions is do I need to replace the crank as well?
How much do I need to have it done? get all the parts and have it tuned? Rough guesstimation is all I'm asking for... Also if anyone knows a good place in AL let me know. The original plan was me and my uncle do the work, but I don't have the time...
Goals:
1) Have my block bored to a 2.0L GSR
2) Preparing for turbo...
Pretty much looking at a crower bottom end, so one of my questions is do I need to replace the crank as well?
How much do I need to have it done? get all the parts and have it tuned? Rough guesstimation is all I'm asking for... Also if anyone knows a good place in AL let me know. The original plan was me and my uncle do the work, but I don't have the time...
i can't send the block off, I need it in the shop for only as long as it takes to get it done, I don't have time to yank the motor, break it down and ship it off, I need my car back ASAP b/c it's my daily driver... my rodeo works, but it's so much better driving my gsr
Well if you can't send the block off, you're not going to be able to go 2.0L. You'll need to send it off to get it sleeved. My advice is that if the GSR is your daily driver, don't attempt a big turbo build. Shit happens, parts can break, things can go wrong during the build and take longer than anticipated. But, if you still want to do it, I'd go with a Wiseco piston and Crower rod, and like Snoopy said, leave the OEM crank in there. They can handle a lot of horsepower. Just have the rotating assembly balanced at a machine shop, and maybe have the crank micropolished a little bit. Figure a little over $1k for a good set of rods and pistons, and rings/bearings. Turbo is going to cost a bit if you buy good parts, and not go with a cheap used/junkyard setup like most people. Make sure you don't skimp out on engine management. Go Hondata or AEM EMS, something tunable, and have someone who really knows what they are doing tune it. Tuning is not the place to skimp out on a turbo build..bad tuning or no tuning can turn that brand new built motor into a hunk of shit in a matter of hours.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
why doesn't anyone just sell the sleeves cuz if I gotta ship my block off, I'd rather do it my damn self and save a shit load of money, cuz I can take off the days and not get hurt from it as bad as shipping it off...
Why? Because they have tons of experience in doing honda sleeves. Because if they don't install them, they wont warranty the work should the sleeve crack or start sinking. If you cant afford to have your car down, don't build a motor, and don't go boosted. Shit happens...you play, you pay.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
number one, i'm plenty experienced to handle my own, granted ur right you have to pay to play, but if ur not going to answer my questions leave my thread alone... the whole point is I don't trust sending off my motor; I don't want to have to wait the forty days and forty nites just to get the block back!
You gave me some answers in ur first response and I appreciate them, but now ur just trying to preach to me like i'm some stupid noob!
You gave me some answers in ur first response and I appreciate them, but now ur just trying to preach to me like i'm some stupid noob!
Some people need the preaching. Obviously you still don't get it. You've made threads before about wanting to do your own sleeves, and we already told you why they don't get sold on their own. If you're so hell bent on going 2 liter and boost, get a B20 shortblock, build it in your spare time so the car isn't down, and put in a Golden Eagle blockguard. Then take a saturday and swap it in.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
You don't need a new crank. You do need to sit down and map out exactly how much horsepower, and what sort of horsepower you want. Building a turbocharged autocrosser/street car is different than building a turbocharged car for the street and drag strip. You'll be running different tolerences and different components looking for power in different places. Figure a couple hundred bucks for the tuning, a grand or so for the Turbo, 500 for a new cast manifold or a 1000 for a tubular. Another grand for Turbo accessories and tubing. 1500 or so for an EMS if you don't have one. 500 or so for the dynotuning. 400 for injectors...
Rather than messing with sleeving an old block and all of that, save up an extra 2k and buy a Dart block. With the headache of buying and installing sleeves out of the way, you can build up the engine on the rack at your own pace. Granted you'll have to wait a little longer to build your dream monster, but it'll be a much better beast than trying to Frankenstein it. Then when it's built and ready, you remove your engine on a Saturday, install the new one on a Sunday, take the car to the tuners Monday morning, and they'll have it back to you by Wednesday.
Quick.
Clean.
Easy.
All in all, I spent about 15k on my "$3000" turbo kit. Then because I chintzed the machine work at a shitty shop, I only ran the engine for about 3-4k miles before it made like a grenade.
Rather than messing with sleeving an old block and all of that, save up an extra 2k and buy a Dart block. With the headache of buying and installing sleeves out of the way, you can build up the engine on the rack at your own pace. Granted you'll have to wait a little longer to build your dream monster, but it'll be a much better beast than trying to Frankenstein it. Then when it's built and ready, you remove your engine on a Saturday, install the new one on a Sunday, take the car to the tuners Monday morning, and they'll have it back to you by Wednesday.
Quick.
Clean.
Easy.
All in all, I spent about 15k on my "$3000" turbo kit. Then because I chintzed the machine work at a shitty shop, I only ran the engine for about 3-4k miles before it made like a grenade.


