What's your problem? :a:
"Michele91teg" is asking a legitimate question. :eh:

 

I'm sorry I didn't see this thread earlier.
Lemme see what I can do to help.

If your car has had the recall repair performed, it will show up in the computer at your Acura dealer. Like all other manufacturers, Honda maintains a national registry to track the status of vehicles subject to recall.

If it turns out that your car is in need of the recall repair (I think it's actually a replacement distributor of a different design), then the repair should be performed by a dealer at little or no cost to you.

Now about this tachometer needle "bouncing"...
a) Is the needle fluctuating all the time, or just in the 3000-3500 rpm window you've referred to earlier?
b) Does the car seem to surge or sputter at any particular rpm?
c) Is the idle lumpy and abnormally low (under 600 rpm)?

If any of these conditions apply, I'd suspect the ignition advance and possibly the base-line timing. Furthermore, the coil itself may have degraded to the point where it cannot produce a strong spark.

Based on your experience with this independent mechanic, I would not trust my car to them again. If they can't plug in an oil pressure sensor, what else will they screw up?

My recommendation is to confirm whether or not your car has had the recall performed. If it has, I'd start with the coil and plugs. Replace them and see if the power improves.

 

my old car was a g2 (thhe wife's in it now) and the needle would actually drop out and bounce back up sometimes. the wierd thing is that i really dont think the tach was accurately matched with the engine rpms because it would be running smoothly at the same time the tach was fluctuating at least a 1000rpms...is your tach matched with your engine speed?

 

usually after driving a while on the highway, about 45 minutes to an hour, the rpm needle will start to bounce around between 3000 and 4000 rpm's. it has happened in the past during lower rpm's but it usually starts doing it after driving for about an hour, and i don't drive for that long unless i'm on the highway which is why the rpm's are at about 3500 (about 70 mph). it does this "bouncing" at for about 5 to 10 seconds, and then it goes back to normal for a few minutes untill it does it again, and it does it at random. sometimes it happens once every 5 minutes, other times it does it several times whithin one minute. when this happens the car usually still driving fine, no acceleration or deceleration, but othertimes you do feel a slight sputter. like i said this happens at random. it is kind of hard to explain. i don't think the idle is lumpy or abnormally low but it does usually stay 6000 rpm's.

also, after driving ANY amount of time i noticed the engine feels extremely hot. i know it is summer and i do live in florida, and it is of course an engine, but it is WAY hotter than my girlfriends car or my friends car. EVERYTHING under the hood is piping hot, but the gage in the dashboard reads that its fine. maybe it is, but after driving about 45 minutes there is a faint smell of something burning, but i'm not sure what. there is plenty of oil plus i just got an oil change last week. i'm not sure if any of this is related to the rpm needle bouncing but i figured i would tell you and see what you think.

any responce on why this might be happening would be much appreciated

 

1) I'm beginning to think that is a problem internal to the tachometer...or the wiring that supplies the input signal to the tacho. If you haven't confirmed the recall status of your car, I'd get that handled first.

2) Modern temperature guages are not a real measurement of coolant temperature. They are essentially three-position indicators... "Cold", "Normal" & "Oh Shit! I'm Boiling Over!".

In my experience.. knowing my cooling system is in tip-top shape:
Until coolant temp hits 128°F, the needle on the factory gauge does nothing.
The needle is at "normal" temp (pointing straight up) by 145°F and it stays there well past 210°F.

So don't expect the guage to show a high level of detail.

If the car isn't consuming or losing coolant, the water pump is in good condition and the radiator cap is holding the correct amount of pressure, then the car should be fine.

 

i dont know this could be a long shot but ill say it anyways.. could there be a problem with the ecu not knowing when to give fuel or not to the engine or a screwed up fuel/air ratio?