I'm getting ready to rebuild my spare b18c1 and I was thinking about stroking it to a 2.26ltr. What are your opinions on stroker motors?? Thanks!!

 

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lowers your rev-ability but your torque numbers will go up by a lot.

 

I was under the impression that if you install a stroker kit you end up with an even lower rod ratio than stock.


I'd rather have a teg that could rev high. Then again I'm an LS owner, what do I know of high reving motors.

 

we LS guys still rev higher than most of the 1.8's out there...

 

Ha ha, that's true.


-I guess I would rather increase the bore then the stroke, if I were to do such a thing. I've been told that Integras have low rod ratio to begin with, so stroking is a no go.

Why lower the rod ratio even more, I don't get it? :dunno:

It seems like a waste of cash to me.

 

I think i'd talk w/ some engine builders. Then once you have you an engine guy, get them to do some head and port work, then bore the motor to 2.0 or so0o0o liters. Put better pistons and all the other goodies in there.

 

I've heard better things about using wider sleeves and pistons than stroker kits. Anyways, I like my rev-happy engine the way it is, so I'm a bit biased.

 

I'm actually kicking around the idea myself...h: But it'll be a while.

And I'll sacrifice a higher rev-range for a wide powerband with peak torque early on.

h: Since we're bench racing... 2.1 liters, say 9.8:1 compression with a 62cid blower and an air-water intercooler. Even on moderate boost, torque would be nice and healthy.

If you are planning to go FI, I'd step down to their 2.1L kit (84x95mm) to leave a bit more space between cylinder bores.
The 2.26L kit is pretty extreme. (87x95mm)

In any event, I'd talk it over with the guys at Crower.

 

If you really want to spend the money, DART makes a deck riser that can be welded onto your bottom end. Using the 95mm stroke and a custom length rod, you can retain the revvability AND get the torque of added displacement. It is not cheap however, and I don't think that the hood will clear the motor after adding the deck riser.

 

In order to seat the block lower, you'd probably need to convert to a dry-sump oiling system. Then modify the engine mounts to reposition the motor and tranny a scoshe lower. h:

Might as well go with a K-series swap (once they work the bugs out). h:

Okay, enough bench racing. h: