My step-daughter's 95 Integra developed a problem last night leaving her stranded.

She has had a very slow leak of the clutch fluid and has had to add some about once a year. The other day she had problems shifting into gear and almost pull over but it started shifting again.

Last night she shifted into natural while driving and when she went to shift back into gear it wouldn't go.

When she is low on fluid the clutch pedal would go to the floor and stick there. That didn't happen this time. The pedal is stiff but moveable. However it vibrates when you push in on it.

I checked and then added some fluid. Bled the slave cylinder but there was no improvement. Pressing in on the clutch pedal will not disengage the clutch/tranny.

I can feel the slave cylinder move the metal arm behind the rubber boot when she press the pedal so I think the master and slave cylinders are working. I think the problem is from the slave on into the clutch.

I had her put the tranny in reverse and hold the clutch pedal down and start the car. The car moved with the starter.

I have been searching the old posts here last night and this morning and cannot find anything that looks like a similar problem. Does anyone have a suggestion or advise?

My plan at this point is to pull the tranny and look at what is going on with the clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing.

Any help is much appreciated.

 

should a spring in the clutch break, it would get between the flywheel and the disk. now because disengagement of the clutch is just a few centimeters, this spring would lock up the clutch & tranny.

my diagnosis is, the clutch has failed. you'll need to replace it.

 

Thanks, that may not be too hard.

I've done a clutch before on a Ford Aerostar. I've never pulled a trans-axle. I'll read up on it in my Haynes manual.

 

not difficult on integras:

take off the starter, detach the ground strap, disconnect the slave cylinder's hydrolic line, remove the axles (worst part), then just unbolt the 7 or 8 bolts holding the case to the block.

 

Removing the axles is actually easier compared to removing the transmission.

You say you can feel the slave cylinder pushing on the clutch fork, but can you actually see the clutch fork move? Take the rubber boot off of the front of the transmission that covers the clutch fork and have someone press the clutch. It should pivot like a see-saw.

I had a problem before where my slave cylinder gave out. After uninstalling it, it literally fell apart in my hands.

 

well the whole ball-joint breaking then is the hard part, IMO.

 

OK, I've just read through the Haynes manual. They use an engine hoist and a transmission jack. I don't have either.

Can it be done with a small floor jack. I've got 4 jack stands and a back board to roll around under the car. Do I really need the hoist to lift up on the eninge and can I use just a small floor jack to hold the tranny and lower it down?

 

i just used jackstands and jacks...all done in my driveway

 

Since you'll be removing the transmission-side engine mount, you'll need to support the engine. I would raise the jack so that it's touching right in the middle of the oil pan. Then, undo your motor mount, then raise the jack/engine slightly, put two jack stands underneath the oil pan, with a board to spread out the load, then lower the engine onto the stands.

Use the jack to lower the transmission to the ground. If you have an old tire, you can dissassemble the transmission from the engine, slide it off the mainshaft while still supporting it to make sure it doesn't snap anything, then lower it onto the tire. I've had to do that before.

Did you follow my advice?

Also, if you're going to do this with a manual, do it with a Helms. Haynes is highly lacking.

 

Now that I think about it, you will probably have to remove your header, since you will be supporting from the bottom, and not lifting from the top.