Ignition/starter/key problem
Something's just come up with my car, and I'd like to throw it around here before taking it to the dealer. And let me state up-front that I'm not very car savvy, so if I get a term or part name wrong, just please bear with me. I'm learning.
Also, my car: '95 Acura Integra LS, 4D, 120k+ miles
It's dyin' on me. It'll start just fine, but when the key goes back to the II position after starting it up, it dies. I've checked all the connections to the battery, distributor cap, and alternator, and everything looks okay. And it IS starting. I can even drive it if I keep the key in the III position, but I only did that to get home (not a long distance) after it died on the highway. Anyways, to me it sounds like something may be loose in the ignition/starter switch (this would be the part name I'm not sure about).
Has anyone else had this problem? If so, am I correct about the problem? Again, if so, is this something I can fix myself without taking it to a mechanic? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Rob R.
Also, my car: '95 Acura Integra LS, 4D, 120k+ miles
It's dyin' on me. It'll start just fine, but when the key goes back to the II position after starting it up, it dies. I've checked all the connections to the battery, distributor cap, and alternator, and everything looks okay. And it IS starting. I can even drive it if I keep the key in the III position, but I only did that to get home (not a long distance) after it died on the highway. Anyways, to me it sounds like something may be loose in the ignition/starter switch (this would be the part name I'm not sure about).
Has anyone else had this problem? If so, am I correct about the problem? Again, if so, is this something I can fix myself without taking it to a mechanic? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Rob R.
Flaky ignition switches are sorta common, that's the electrical part of the switch behind the lock cylinder. If you're good with electrical stuff & you have a DMM you can check it out.
The ignition circuit is supposed to be closed in the 'on' position and also in the 'start' position. It sounds like that circuit goes open when you release the switch back to the 'on' position after starting the engine.
The ignition circuit is supposed to be closed in the 'on' position and also in the 'start' position. It sounds like that circuit goes open when you release the switch back to the 'on' position after starting the engine.
Originally Posted by JimBlake
Flaky ignition switches are sorta common, that's the electrical part of the switch behind the lock cylinder. If you're good with electrical stuff & you have a DMM you can check it out.
The ignition circuit is supposed to be closed in the 'on' position and also in the 'start' position. It sounds like that circuit goes open when you release the switch back to the 'on' position after starting the engine.
The ignition circuit is supposed to be closed in the 'on' position and also in the 'start' position. It sounds like that circuit goes open when you release the switch back to the 'on' position after starting the engine.
Rob R.
DMM = digital multi-meter. (Voltmeter/ammeter/ohm-meter)
I guess it's not too hard to swap that ignition switch, but if you've never done any wiring of any sort, it's hard to say whether you'll find it easy.
If you want to start doing stuff yourself, get a shop manual for your car. Helm is the best (www.helminc.com). Lots of stores sell Chilton or Haynes books, which are sorta OK. Public library might even have something. Even if you go to a mechanic, looking at a repair book can enable you to talk intelligently to the shop. Sometimes that makes a difference in how the shop treats you...
I guess it's not too hard to swap that ignition switch, but if you've never done any wiring of any sort, it's hard to say whether you'll find it easy.
If you want to start doing stuff yourself, get a shop manual for your car. Helm is the best (www.helminc.com). Lots of stores sell Chilton or Haynes books, which are sorta OK. Public library might even have something. Even if you go to a mechanic, looking at a repair book can enable you to talk intelligently to the shop. Sometimes that makes a difference in how the shop treats you...
Originally Posted by JimBlake
DMM = digital multi-meter. (Voltmeter/ammeter/ohm-meter)
I guess it's not too hard to swap that ignition switch, but if you've never done any wiring of any sort, it's hard to say whether you'll find it easy.
If you want to start doing stuff yourself, get a shop manual for your car. Helm is the best (www.helminc.com). Lots of stores sell Chilton or Haynes books, which are sorta OK. Public library might even have something. Even if you go to a mechanic, looking at a repair book can enable you to talk intelligently to the shop. Sometimes that makes a difference in how the shop treats you...
I guess it's not too hard to swap that ignition switch, but if you've never done any wiring of any sort, it's hard to say whether you'll find it easy.
If you want to start doing stuff yourself, get a shop manual for your car. Helm is the best (www.helminc.com). Lots of stores sell Chilton or Haynes books, which are sorta OK. Public library might even have something. Even if you go to a mechanic, looking at a repair book can enable you to talk intelligently to the shop. Sometimes that makes a difference in how the shop treats you...
Also, I appreciate your help and feedback.
Rob R.
Much more detailed. More pricey, too. It's the official 'authorized by Honda' book. I haven't looked at a Haynes for Honda since my dad's '77 Civic & my '74 BMW. For a flaky ignition switch, it's probably OK. For rebuilding a transmission, I'd get a Helm book.
Originally Posted by JimBlake
Much more detailed. More pricey, too. It's the official 'authorized by Honda' book. I haven't looked at a Haynes for Honda since my dad's '77 Civic & my '74 BMW. For a flaky ignition switch, it's probably OK. For rebuilding a transmission, I'd get a Helm book.
And like I said, I really appreciate your help!
Rob R.
Where would I get an ignition switch? Is this something I can get at AutoZone or Advance, or am I going to have to order this? Since I'm expecting a big bill when I get the timing belt replaced (and the water pump, and the...other thing), this is sounding more and more I'd like to save some money and fix it myself. I'm just worried that, with my non-existant experience, I've diagnosed this wrong, and I'll end up wasting money fixing something that didn't need fixing, while the broken thing is still broken. GAH! It's enough to make your head explode!!
Rob R.
Rob R.
Maybe not autozone but it's worth a phone call. Or check out www.ahmotor.com or www.acuraautomotiveparts.org


