how much better is obd1 than obd2? would a 95 gsr beat a say 99 gsr stock?? If so by how much?ty

 

Neither one is better. OBD has nothing to do with performance. It means On Board Diagnostics. In both cases, they are specifications required by the US Department of Transportation for all cars to be equipped with.

The main differences between OBD1 and OBD2 are as follows:

- OBD1 Honda ECUs are pretty simple to chip; the construction of OBD2 HONDA (not necessarily other companies') ECUs makes them tough to chip
- OBD2 includes a diagnostic port which can be hooked up to a reader
- OBD2 includes a "learning" capability which will negate any changes in ignition timing you make by spinning the distributor

 

Its possible to chip an obd2 ecu?

 

Depends on which one.

The reason it's relatively easy to chip an OBD1 Honda ECU is that it has a separate memory chip which stores all the maps and such that the ECU uses and that chip can simply be replaced. Their non-OBD ECUs are like this as well. In addition there are a couple companies which modify the non-OBD and OBD1 ECUs to be programmable by the user: ZDyne and Hondata.

The OBD2 D-, B- and H-series ECUs have a memory chip which is integrated with the processor. There's no way to replace the chip unless you also replace the processor, and that's expensive enough such that no chip companies have bothered to try.

The OBD2 K-series ECUs use flash memory which can be reprogrammed, and Hondata offers this service. Hondata also modifies K-series ECUs to be fully programmable.

Essentially if you want to chip an OBD2 D-, B- or H-series car you need to replace the ECU entirely. You can do that either with an AEM EMS standalone that will plug into the stock harness, or you can get an OBD1 conversion harness that will allow you to run a chipped/modded/whatever OBD1 ECU.

As always, you don't need to chip a Honda four-banger ECU unless the motor has been modified beyond the standard bolt ons.

 

I have never really seen proof that this is true. I have however, seen evidence to support that spinning the distributor does make a difference.

Doing WOT runs and checking plugs have shown a difference in A/F when going from 16 to 18. Not to mention setting the distributor at all the way retarded causes hesitation and poor fuel mileage.

Of course the best way to test would be on dyno, and not tests that could have deviation or user interpretation, but I choose to keep my distributor at 18BTDC at idle

 

obd-1 is just more responsive to bolt on's rather than obd-2