probelm when shifting into 1st
When you replaced the clutch 5 months ago, were the pressure plate & throw-out bearing also replaced? And the fluid level in the clutch master is ok? Knowing that the above mentioned parts are ok, I'd bleed the clutch again to be sure, as there may be air in the line.
good luck,
-W-
good luck,
-W-
I checked the color in the clutch fluid master cylinder...the color looks odd, its not like fresh DOT 3 fluid, its like a light grey color.
Ive only learned how to bleed my brakes. I havent ever tried bleeding the clutch....can anyone give me directions on how to do that?
Thanks
-Sean
Ive only learned how to bleed my brakes. I havent ever tried bleeding the clutch....can anyone give me directions on how to do that?
Thanks
-Sean
same way as how you bleed the brakes have somebody pump your clutch and hold down on it after a few pumps and open the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder. Also check inside under the dash and make sure the master cylinder is not leaking they usually like to leak on the inside.
for the 1st and R gears, if the gear doesnt catch and instead grinds, put it back in neutral, hit the break, release the clutch (while still in N), then try again put it in 1 or R (whichever you're going for)
Originally posted by silver_teg007
I checked the color in the clutch fluid master cylinder...the color looks odd, its not like fresh DOT 3 fluid, its like a light grey color.
Ive only learned how to bleed my brakes. I havent ever tried bleeding the clutch....can anyone give me directions on how to do that?
Thanks
-Sean
I checked the color in the clutch fluid master cylinder...the color looks odd, its not like fresh DOT 3 fluid, its like a light grey color.
Ive only learned how to bleed my brakes. I havent ever tried bleeding the clutch....can anyone give me directions on how to do that?
Thanks
-Sean
One way to check if your clutch system is to start your car and let it warm up to regular idle (~800 RPM) with the shifter in neutral and the clutch engaged. Once it hits that RPM, press the clutch pedal down and count 10 seconds, then shift it into reverse... there should be no grinding noise (A ca-***** is OK, but a grind means the pressure plate is still exerting force on the clutch for some reason.
Another test is to, while you're car is this warmed up, depress the clutch all the way to the floor, then let up about 1/2-3/4th of an inch, and shift back and forth between 1st and reverse. It should slip between the gears rather effortlessly with no grinds (Again, the ca-***** going into reverse is OK)
If these tests fail, there is something wrong with your clutch system, and thus you should do something about it... Again, first thing I'd try is flushing or bleeding the fluid...
***edit: OH MAN THAT'S GREAT... it looks like the word Chink is a censored word here at HAN, and thus what I originally typed as ca-chink came out as "ca-*****"
Awesome...
Originally posted by Epoch
Search. I posted a how to to flush the clutch master system... and the bleed would be the same, but you'd rather look for no bubbles in the effluent liquid rather than color.
One way to check if your clutch system is to start your car and let it warm up to regular idle (~800 RPM) with the shifter in neutral and the clutch engaged. Once it hits that RPM, press the clutch pedal down and count 10 seconds, then shift it into reverse... there should be no grinding noise (A ca-***** is OK, but a grind means the pressure plate is still exerting force on the clutch for some reason.
Another test is to, while you're car is this warmed up, depress the clutch all the way to the floor, then let up about 1/2-3/4th of an inch, and shift back and forth between 1st and reverse. It should slip between the gears rather effortlessly with no grinds (Again, the ca-***** going into reverse is OK)
If these tests fail, there is something wrong with your clutch system, and thus you should do something about it... Again, first thing I'd try is flushing or bleeding the fluid...
Search. I posted a how to to flush the clutch master system... and the bleed would be the same, but you'd rather look for no bubbles in the effluent liquid rather than color.
One way to check if your clutch system is to start your car and let it warm up to regular idle (~800 RPM) with the shifter in neutral and the clutch engaged. Once it hits that RPM, press the clutch pedal down and count 10 seconds, then shift it into reverse... there should be no grinding noise (A ca-***** is OK, but a grind means the pressure plate is still exerting force on the clutch for some reason.
Another test is to, while you're car is this warmed up, depress the clutch all the way to the floor, then let up about 1/2-3/4th of an inch, and shift back and forth between 1st and reverse. It should slip between the gears rather effortlessly with no grinds (Again, the ca-***** going into reverse is OK)
If these tests fail, there is something wrong with your clutch system, and thus you should do something about it... Again, first thing I'd try is flushing or bleeding the fluid...
Thanks, thats good info.
-Sean


