CV Boot damage & my Integra
10-24-2003, 08:30 PM
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CV Boot damage & my Integra
So I was changing my oil and noticed my CV boot was slashed. It looks pretty recent, and the grease inside was still relatively clean. I decided to repair best I could and wait on a part.
Pictures as follows:
My ripped CV boot.
Different angle. Not the best quality, but light and space was a bit limited.
Shot from the top. You can see how the rip comes together at the top, so I chose to seal it with some CTV.
Nothing much to see here, folks. Totally stock.
Up on jacks! Thrilling!
You can see where a very small amount of grease hit the back of my wheel well. Other than that it's a break disc. Party at my house.
Yeah I just waxed that, so keep your grubby hands of it. Note the dent
You can see the my dad's Legend in the reflection. We're an Acura family. How sweet.
Closeup of damage done to my car when I hit a cone lying in the middle of my lane on the freeway after work. They were doing roadwork, and they left a cone smack in the MIDDLE of my lane, and it had fallen over facing away from me and only the black underside of the cone was showing. By the time I saw it I was right on top of it. I was lucky enough not to smack it with the dead centre of my car. But, what was done aint pretty. I'm going to have to do something about that. Oh by the way, :madfawk: you Caltrans. :madfawk: right in the ear.
My clutch pad. What's left of it.
High mileage, ya think?
The CTV drying on the crack in the boot. Please hold, please hold!
My weapon of choice. 133k isn't nice for the wheels.
Pictures as follows:
My ripped CV boot.
Different angle. Not the best quality, but light and space was a bit limited.
Shot from the top. You can see how the rip comes together at the top, so I chose to seal it with some CTV.
Nothing much to see here, folks. Totally stock.
Up on jacks! Thrilling!
You can see where a very small amount of grease hit the back of my wheel well. Other than that it's a break disc. Party at my house.
Yeah I just waxed that, so keep your grubby hands of it. Note the dent
You can see the my dad's Legend in the reflection. We're an Acura family. How sweet. Closeup of damage done to my car when I hit a cone lying in the middle of my lane on the freeway after work. They were doing roadwork, and they left a cone smack in the MIDDLE of my lane, and it had fallen over facing away from me and only the black underside of the cone was showing. By the time I saw it I was right on top of it. I was lucky enough not to smack it with the dead centre of my car. But, what was done aint pretty. I'm going to have to do something about that. Oh by the way, :madfawk: you Caltrans. :madfawk: right in the ear.
My clutch pad. What's left of it.
High mileage, ya think?
The CTV drying on the crack in the boot. Please hold, please hold!
My weapon of choice. 133k isn't nice for the wheels.
10-25-2003, 07:18 AM
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you mean that annoying ass clicking sound when you turn your wheels....ive grown to love it:thumbup: j/p ive repalced mine already and theyre already cracking and smacking again and its only been like a year. but i never raised my car up either after i had them rerplaced the first time as well. hmmm:dunno: i dont let it get to me anymore. do you here the infamous click when you make a turn???
10-25-2003, 09:17 AM
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Definitely going to have to replace that. Go down to your local Auto Zone and pay $80 bucks for a replacement. Limited lifetime warrenty so if it ever does something like this again, they'll replace! :thumbup:
10-26-2003, 11:39 AM
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When you hit the cone, you may have torn the boot, or it may just have weathered, you wantthat stuff sealed up to keep out the grit
10-26-2003, 07:39 PM
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Originally posted by drumsy
Definitely going to have to replace that. Go down to your local Auto Zone and pay $80 bucks for a replacement. Limited lifetime warrenty so if it ever does something like this again, they'll replace! :thumbup:
Definitely going to have to replace that. Go down to your local Auto Zone and pay $80 bucks for a replacement. Limited lifetime warrenty so if it ever does something like this again, they'll replace! :thumbup:
10-26-2003, 08:25 PM
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I'd say on a scale of easy to hard, this would be an easy-moderate. Here's how to replace it:
1) Raise car on jackstands and remove the tire. It's hard to see which side the busted axle is on, but it looks like passenger side.
2) Drain your transmission fluid.
3) Examine the axle nut on the end of the axle. There should be a little tab that has been hammered into a small depression. Use a punch and hammer to raise that tab, then use a 32mm socket and impact wrench to remove the nut. If you don't have an impact wrench, get a breaker bar because that's a tough nut to remove.
4) Remove the self locking nut (12mm) on the bottom of the damper fork and slide the bolt out.
5) Unbolt the flange bolt (10mm) on the top of the damper fork.
6) Slide the damper fork off. It will took some twisting and moving around, but it will slide off.
7) Remove the cotter pin that is going through the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Then remove the castle nut (12mm).
8) You'll need to then pop the ball joint out of the lower control arm. There's many ways to do it, some include pickle forks, some use a ball joint remover. I personally like to spray WD-40 or some other type of liquid wrench into that area, then bang on each side of the control arm next to the ball joint with a hammer. Eventually, I can use force to life the entire hub/wheel assembly out of the LCA.
9) Next use a thick flat-tip screwdriver or pry bar to slide inbetween the inboard joint and the transmission. Don't pull on the joint itself to pull it out of the transmission or you could risk seperating the joint.
10) Pull the knuckle out and then have someone gently tap on the axle from the outside of the wheel assembly. This will push the axle through the hub and your axle is completely removed.
Assemble in the reverse order. The inboard CV joint may give you some problems sliding into the transmission. I was able to enlist some help to slowly rotate the axle while I pushed against the inboard joint. There seemed to be a sweet spot where it would slide in with a click. The damper fork utilizes an aligning tab to line it up. This is located on the back of the fork. Make sure you only tighten the damper bolts and nut with the full weight of the car on the damper. Also be sure to punch a tab onto your axle nut once it is installed.
If you have any further questions, by all means let us know!
1) Raise car on jackstands and remove the tire. It's hard to see which side the busted axle is on, but it looks like passenger side.
2) Drain your transmission fluid.
3) Examine the axle nut on the end of the axle. There should be a little tab that has been hammered into a small depression. Use a punch and hammer to raise that tab, then use a 32mm socket and impact wrench to remove the nut. If you don't have an impact wrench, get a breaker bar because that's a tough nut to remove.
4) Remove the self locking nut (12mm) on the bottom of the damper fork and slide the bolt out.
5) Unbolt the flange bolt (10mm) on the top of the damper fork.
6) Slide the damper fork off. It will took some twisting and moving around, but it will slide off.
7) Remove the cotter pin that is going through the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Then remove the castle nut (12mm).
8) You'll need to then pop the ball joint out of the lower control arm. There's many ways to do it, some include pickle forks, some use a ball joint remover. I personally like to spray WD-40 or some other type of liquid wrench into that area, then bang on each side of the control arm next to the ball joint with a hammer. Eventually, I can use force to life the entire hub/wheel assembly out of the LCA.
9) Next use a thick flat-tip screwdriver or pry bar to slide inbetween the inboard joint and the transmission. Don't pull on the joint itself to pull it out of the transmission or you could risk seperating the joint.
10) Pull the knuckle out and then have someone gently tap on the axle from the outside of the wheel assembly. This will push the axle through the hub and your axle is completely removed.
Assemble in the reverse order. The inboard CV joint may give you some problems sliding into the transmission. I was able to enlist some help to slowly rotate the axle while I pushed against the inboard joint. There seemed to be a sweet spot where it would slide in with a click. The damper fork utilizes an aligning tab to line it up. This is located on the back of the fork. Make sure you only tighten the damper bolts and nut with the full weight of the car on the damper. Also be sure to punch a tab onto your axle nut once it is installed.
If you have any further questions, by all means let us know!