Greetings

I have a 1999 Prelude Type SH. I need to replace my clutch due to my pilot barrings going out. I have replaced clutches plenty of times before in my old hondas, but never have replaced a clutch with an ATTS unit on it. Im willing to tackle this myself. I am here asking anyone for any important tips or points I need to know about before hand. I understand theres a lot more work involved removing the ATTS unit.

Can anyone give me some pointers as to what this consists of?, or possibly be able to point me to some kind of tutorial that can demonstrate this? Would be very helpful and save me a ton of cash to do this work myself.

Any help or info is very much appreciated.

Thanks Guys.

 

it's not hard at all. It's just like replacing a clutch in any other car, but there's just a little more work that needs to be done because of the ATTS unit. Don't forget to change out your rear main seal on the block, cause thats a seal that's known to start leaking and since you have your transmission off, now would be the best time to change it

 

What you do with the ATTS unit is use a chain to hang it. There is no need to drop it out. It is heavy so use caution. Other than that it like any other prelude. If you drain the fluid in the ATTS it uses Honda ATF.

 

Thanks for the replies. Maybe you guys can tell me if my problems are even in my clutch. Im having second guesses as to what my problem is.

It all started a couple months back. The first symptoms I started getting was a chatter in my wheels when taking off from a stop. It started out real bad, but in time has gone away exept for once in a great while it will do it very mildly. Now I dont know if it has anything to do with my current symptoms, but im just letting you know how it all started out.

My second symptom is my current symptom but it too only happens periodically. It started happening right around the time i had the chatter to my wheels. It started out when coming to a stop with the clutch pushed in, it still wanted to make the car progress mildly in a forward motion. Not much but you can feel the car jerking forward as if the clutch wasnt disengaging all the way. It would happen quite often at first then it seemed to go away after a couple weeks. Then one time i was at a gas station and i was getting in my car to leave and I started the car and it would not go into gear at all. The car was started,clutch puched in and it was trying to grind hard into gear. It would not go into any gear with out grinding as if the clutch was not pushed in at all. So i turned off the car, pushed in the clutch and put it into first gear, then started in up with it in gear. It nudged the car forward a little when it started, then everything was ok and ran fine and i drove away with no problems. whatever it was having problems fixed itself forcefully. A couple more weeks go by and I think everything is doing ok, then other day I started my car to leave, let it warm up then when i tried to drive away it wouldnt go into gear again. So i tried to fix it the same way i fixed it at the gas station and it still wasnt working. I put it into gear with the clutch pushed in and the car running and it was trying to slowly drive the car. If the car was in gear while running, it wouldnt let me take it out and if the car was out of gear while running it wouldnt let me put it in. Today the car is driving fine, but i just know i havent seen the last of it.

Now ive heard of 2 possible issues that may be causing this.

A: My master cylinder to my clutch is going out.
B: My pilot barring to my clutch is going out.

Any additional ideas and opinions are extremely appreciated and helpful.


Thanks again!

 

D/p

 

Bleed the clutch.

First R & R the fluid in the clutch master cyl. Then bleed the fluid out via the bleed valve on the slave cyl. until clean clear fluid comes out.

I use a MityVac on the slave bleed screw. Coat the bleeder screw threads with synthetic lube or it will suck air in. If no MityVac (~$40) - get a helper to pump the clutch the old fashioned way. I use Honda clutch fluid.

Your problem may be with your clutch master, slave, p/p, clutch disk or just the fouled fluid or any combination of these components.

A failing pilot bearing would not contribute to the symptoms you describe.

Bleed your clutch and then post your results.

Good luck and Happy New Year,
Doug

 

Don't forget to change out your rear main seal on the block, cause thats a seal that's known to start leaking and since you have your transmission off, now would be the best time to change it

 

How much do you think the ATTS changes the job compared to a normal clutch replacement job? Basically, how much extra work has to be done because of it? I have an SH too and would like to know for the time when my clutch finally goes.

 

I have a 47-page Guide created by Honda regarding the ATTS and would be happy to send along a link to my Google Drive containing this pdf.