So I spun a rod bearing....
So I Spun A Rod Bearing...and I'm doing a build up, I have some cash constraints so it's the biggest build up I can afford. So I'm doing a GSR block, stock crank, and rods, Boring the block over to only an 82mm and getting some pistons at 82mm with a compression ratio of 11.5.
I am getting new bearings, water pump, oil pump, head gasket, timing belt, rear main seal and upgrading the piston rings from low pressure rings that they come with to high pressure ones. (so I'm told). maybe getting a new oil pan, and I still need a header because I dont think my b16 dc-sport one will fit.
All this with my spring/retainers, skunk 2 stage 2 cams and cam gears and hondata p100 with the engine mounts (clutch and fly wheel which wont help H.P.) and the skunk 2 intake manifold and 68mm throttle body I will hope nets me about 190 WHP, and about 135 or so torque.
So what do you think of the build?
I am getting new bearings, water pump, oil pump, head gasket, timing belt, rear main seal and upgrading the piston rings from low pressure rings that they come with to high pressure ones. (so I'm told). maybe getting a new oil pan, and I still need a header because I dont think my b16 dc-sport one will fit.
All this with my spring/retainers, skunk 2 stage 2 cams and cam gears and hondata p100 with the engine mounts (clutch and fly wheel which wont help H.P.) and the skunk 2 intake manifold and 68mm throttle body I will hope nets me about 190 WHP, and about 135 or so torque.
So what do you think of the build?
Aftermarket pistons will not fit on stock rods. When you are rebuilding for power, aftermarket rods are recommended.
The stock Japanese rings are fine for your application. The low tension rings are thin to reduce high RPM flutter because of their reduced mass and inertia at TDC. They also reduce friction and float, so stick with the stock rings.
Sounds like a good build. Good luck and keep us updated on the results.
The stock Japanese rings are fine for your application. The low tension rings are thin to reduce high RPM flutter because of their reduced mass and inertia at TDC. They also reduce friction and float, so stick with the stock rings.
Sounds like a good build. Good luck and keep us updated on the results.
These are knock off pistons, of a b16, but at 11.5 compression. We all know a stock b16 piston in a gsr block raises the compression to 11.3, so i dont know what makes it 11.5, but the rings were being upgraded by the guy doing the boring and final honeing and ring filleing, so he said he has seen them before, anfd wont let me use them, so i said o.k.
i did not know about fluttering with low tension rings at all. i will have to ask him if he even knows about that. the guy helping with the build is the main engine builder for www.inlinepro.com
thanks for the advise. So today i ordered my stainless type-r copy header from robear racing, and my 2.5 inch o-ring and flange from jhpusa.com, so i get those on fri i hope.
i did not know about fluttering with low tension rings at all. i will have to ask him if he even knows about that. the guy helping with the build is the main engine builder for www.inlinepro.com
thanks for the advise. So today i ordered my stainless type-r copy header from robear racing, and my 2.5 inch o-ring and flange from jhpusa.com, so i get those on fri i hope.
Oh, no the old block was a stock b16 one, this is a brand new gsr block with no problems. i could have just slapped it on as is with no prob at all, but I decided i might as well replace almost everything to make it truely new and to get at least a little hp out of it.
So I got my new header from robear today. Type-r stainless steel withthe 2.5 inch collector. I got the flange and o-ring from jhpusa. The o-ring was from honda japan in the dealer package still!
so we assembled the block and rebuilt the motor and installed it and put on the new test pipe, and did some other little thing in one day! IT RUNS! So hopefully later today it will be tuned and I'll have a new hp rating to show!


