GSR goin Turbo, bottom end questions...
as it says...i got a 94 with high miles and JDM ITR pistons. when i did the pistons a couple months ago i had no blowby on the old pistons and the cylinder walls were flawless so im not really worried about that, and at 140k im burning no oil and showing no sign of age (knock on wood). heres the question, i dont have alot of dough sitting around as i am in the middle of gettin my kit together, but i know i gotta get rid of thos pistons before goin boost. so im thinkin just to go back to a new set of GSR pistons to get the compression down, then while i got that all stripped down ill have the main bearing, rod bearings, thrust washers, rod bolts all replaced, along with a slight hone on the block to freshen things up...this sound good to you guys? anything unneccessary or not there? also what u guys know about file fitted rings, a buddy of mine told me about them and said with a hone its a good idea...i dunno? also the cheapest i found the GSR pistons new for was about 50 a piece, that sound right to you guys? thanx for reading and any opinions or thoughts or whatever would be great :thumbup:
well i was looking into some forged rods and pistons, but to be honest i just cant afford that right now. i wish i could and i know its smart but im gonna stick to stock boost levels (for now :naughty: )...anyway due to absolutlely riduclous turbo prices ive looked into a hybrid T3T4 with the specs im looking for online, and its gone for pretty cheap, around 330 or so shipped. anyway as far as manifold, either revhard or drag cast 4-1. Thanx for the reply and any others or comments or anything are welcome
also, ive heard from some people to go with AEBS head studs instead of ARP...any thoughts?
also, ive heard from some people to go with AEBS head studs instead of ARP...any thoughts?
Maybe try to get the pistons just a bit oversized. That will make sure that everything is completely fresh. If you hone it and use the stock pistons there will be a tiny bit more play. Probably not anything to worry about but it wouldn't cost much to go oversized. Other than that everything sounds pretty good. You might consider some stronger valve springs and getting your head ported and polished. That would make a pretty big difference. Oh, and if you want to run more boost you can get a thicker head gasket to drop the compression that much more.
hey thanx alot for the info...if i were to get the OS GSR pistons, i was once told that it requires removal of too much wall, making it unstable? anyway i plan on doin some head work down the line, but for now i wanna get it ready for the boost and break in...boost wont come for a lil while, but looking ahead...
p.s anyone have any thoughts on the ring situation? (file fitted that is)
p.s anyone have any thoughts on the ring situation? (file fitted that is)
You will kick yourself in the ass over and over if youre putting in pistons and dont go forged.
Wait a bit, save your pennies, hone the block and get standard size forged pistons. It will be the best $400 youll ever spend.
If new pistons are going in, you may as well do it right. If you cant afford to go all out, at LEAST replace the cast POS' with forged pistons. Youll benefit more from having forged pistons than a lower comp headgasket.
Wait a bit, save your pennies, hone the block and get standard size forged pistons. It will be the best $400 youll ever spend.
If new pistons are going in, you may as well do it right. If you cant afford to go all out, at LEAST replace the cast POS' with forged pistons. Youll benefit more from having forged pistons than a lower comp headgasket.
How much boost do you want to run? :naughty: 15psi?
How much boost can you afford to run? ±8? :huh:
I'm the kinda guy who advocates overbuilding as a means of having a solid safety margin. I'd have at least a cylinder bore brace welded in when the block is being freshened, if not the AEBS sleeves.
Also, I'd go forged conrods, pistons- simply for durability. And an oil cooler would help too.
I know what I'm proposing is expensive....
h:
Anyway, my 2.3˘
How much boost can you afford to run? ±8? :huh:
I'm the kinda guy who advocates overbuilding as a means of having a solid safety margin. I'd have at least a cylinder bore brace welded in when the block is being freshened, if not the AEBS sleeves.
Also, I'd go forged conrods, pistons- simply for durability. And an oil cooler would help too.
I know what I'm proposing is expensive....
h: Anyway, my 2.3˘
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thanx for the replies guys...and i know the whole forged piston/rod deal would be huge in this setup, but im gonna have a great chance to tear the motor down in like a couple weeks and have that downtime with an extra GSR im pickin up...anyway im gonna have to go with wat i described up above (yes i know most of u guys will sigh) but like i said, im really gonna run stock boost levels for a while, im still in college and crap....BUT in no mean am i denying the fact that i wont want more boost or the fact that at a later time i will built for more boost, but for right now i gotta stick to that....any other thoughts guys would be great...
i know ive said it a couple times, but any ideas on having the shop do the file fitted rings? also NorCal DC4, first off, yea u got that boost figures down good, hehe...also how much would it cost for the bore brace?
i know ive said it a couple times, but any ideas on having the shop do the file fitted rings? also NorCal DC4, first off, yea u got that boost figures down good, hehe...also how much would it cost for the bore brace?
wait, after reading that again...newgsrdriver...i know this might be a totally retarded question but, a while ago i did some research on forged pistons and such, and i was told they HAVE to be mounted on fored rods, if this is true wouldnt that number be more like 800?


