ok guys, i wanna hear from people who has had experience with this... i have a stock civic lx - auto tranny. im not gonna bother with basic bolt-ons or internal modifications... i realized that the only way to make power is to get forced induction and i have decided to go with the ZEX dry kit. i was wondering if anyone has slapped on a nos system in a stock car or in a car with an auto tranny. is it safe? can the tranny take the abuse? any help is appreciated... thanx (BTW, im only gonna be running a 50-60 shot max)

 

You will want to get an MSD window switch wired with your system...here's why. Nitrous is activated at wide open throttle. Since you have an auto tranny, you will be at WOT throughout your race, you don't let off the gas to shift. Since you are still on the gas, the nitrous will be spraying during the shift...this is bad. The window switch will turn on and shut off the nitrous at desired rpm levels, so you will want to shut it off a few hundred rpm before the auto shifts.

 

what if just turn it off and on in-between gears? will that work? also, around what rpm for each gear should i squeeze? i heard that its not good when spraying at a high gear like 3 and 4... thanks for the input

 

Just fair warning: Honda auto's don't respond well for long when you put 50+ HP to them.

I wouldn't cut corners though and go with a window switch, which will be more accurate than you trying to do it manually.

Good luck, have fun.

 

I have a 96 civic ex auto and i just bought a zex kit from a friend last week for $400 (not a bad deal). I getting it installed sometime next thursday or friday, most likely with the 75 shot on it. From what i've been told changing your spark plugs to ones a degree colder is a good idea. I didn't think about when the car is at wot and the car shifts that the nitrous will be running. While the car is at wot you should know about when the car is going to shift so if u let up on the gas some the nitrous should cut off then after it shifts get back on it. One other thing you're going to need to watch is when the car reaches the rev limiter it cuts off the fuel to the engine but you will be at wot unless you upgrade your ecu to get rid of the rev limiter. I should have everything hooked up for the rescheduled nopi nationals at mir on the 28th. I'll post up what times i get and if anything goes wrong. Btw, i would invest in an air/fuel gauge, fuel pressure gauge and a nitrous pressure gauge. Mine should be in on wednesday. i hope i helped.

 

1. Unless you are trying to manually shift the automatic, you will never hit the rev limiter in Drive.
2. A window switch is much more reliable than "knowing when to let off the gas"
3. Not only do you need colder plugs, you need to retard ignition timing, and make sure the plugs are gapped to .030" for nitrous use.
4. An a/f gauge does nothing but have some cool flashy lights that move. It is not accurate at all, and if for some reason it went to lean while you were spraying, its already too late.

 

dubster99....

1. I thought the rev limiter was at 7,000 rpm right before the red on the tach, that's when my car shifts at wot, i could be wrong though
2. Do you know about how much money the window switches run for? Sounds like i should spend the extra money to make sure everything runs right
3. Zex claims that the nitrous system works with the stock settings on the car and that no timing retards are required. Should i retard the ignition anyways?
4. I've never heard anything about the a/f gauges not being at all accurate, but you do have a point about if the car runs lean while the nitrous is engaged. Atleast you'll know not to run the nitrous again until you get the fuel right unless it already blew up on you before you had a chance to let off.

thanks for the info, i'm not in any hurry to get everything hooked up. I'd rather have it done right and miss running it at MIR on the 28th. There's alway midnight madness every friday anyways. Thanks again.

 

i just wanted to keep this post on top... really good info so far and i learned a lot also... plz keep it coming. thankyou

 

1. The rev limiter is after the redline, it is a fuel cutoff. The auto tranny knows to shift before then.
2. I believe window switches are around $80, but can be had for less if you find them used.
3. The zex kit needs timing retard for over a 55 shot, this is stated in the tuning sheet that comes with the kits, and is on zex's website. You must also use 91+ octane fuel. They say that the system works with a completely stock car...stock motor, fuel and ignition systems. You will need one step colder spark plugs gapped at .030", as well as retarding timing for over a 55 shot. Check your plugs after you make a pass on the nitrous to see how the car is running on the nitrous.
4. The autometer a/f gauges are not accurate at all, and should never be used to tune with.

 

just stepping in because I was told my time on e.t. was not accurate. Well they indeed are. I only wish they were better. They will be though on the 20th (dec.) @houston Raceway. The reason I believe is due to the worn drag radials. Just bought new ones in the front. Plus trying out 17's for the first time I'll see how the new rubber works and repost. As for the nitrous I have set up two sets on two civics one= dx, one=ex 98--00. Retarded timing a few degrees, changed plugs, and go. Again on newer vehicles also on the dx(55) on the ex(65). both run fine. Hoped I helped.