Okay i just spent a total of 10 hours doing my mini-me fuking swap!!! 1 hr for NAPA giving me the wrong gasket, 3 hours trying to find the right socket size for all the bolts... then 1 hr for the distributor.. it was a bitch but its running fine

my timing is right, it starts up but when i rev the engine my head has a whistling noise, when i poped my hood and reved from the throttle cable i noticed it was the timing belt (we spilt some oil on the belt) could that be the whistling noise? also the head when i rev sounds a bit different the my d16a6 head (now D16z6 head) and there is NO VTEC right now, could that be why its a different noise? or could it possibly be it still has to get worked in the oil and coolant and new headgasket and stuff? please HELP!!!!

 

why dont you have vtec? and yes that engine has alot of valve noise at high rpm

 

i don't have the money for a V-AFC or even a RPM activated set up for VTEC, i'm low on cash for a while (2 weeks), but what about the timing belt whistiling? is that from the oil we spilt or what?

 

ummm you didnt run the wiring and get the right ecu?

 

and the timing belt shouldnt whistle...even if you got something on it, it wouldnt make noise...like i said the valve train makes hella noise on those

 

oh ok, and the whole point of a mini-me swap is to use the Si wire harness, IM, Exhaust mani, and Si distributor or else its a 92-95 complete swap... if i would get the VTEC harness and ECU i would then have to get the 92-95 complete intake manifold, 92-95 distributor. so why not just run a RPM pill activate kit or VAFC up to my Si wire harness and it'll do the same thing for still cheaper?

 

ohhh... i see. well i did a vtec to non-vtec swap on my wifes...d16y7-d16y8 like i said alot of cam/valve noise...check for vacuum leaks that could be a problem. and yeah a rpm activated switch would work

 

The VTEC intake manifold is much, much better than the nonVTEC's. I'd recommend swapping it.

By the way, running a VTEC "pill" kit or a VAFC is NOT the same as an ECU's VTEC engagement. If you do this, the engine will change over to higher valve lift, but you will get none of the additional fuel or ignition timing which the ECU is programmed to give.

 

:werd: :bowdown: i was thinking the same thing....seems kinda useless to be able to have more air without the fuel to go along with it

 

without enough fuel? i can give my car plenty of fuel with the fuel pressure regulator. and most people do what i've done and just gone with an rpm activate switch or VAFC.