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Half way thru my grounding project

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Old Jun 3, 2003 | 09:04 PM
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Default Half way thru my grounding project

*I wasn't sure If I should post it in DIY or Engine Tech, so I chose the forum with the most traffic*

I've already purchased 4ga Monster ground cable and some 4ga connectors. I've already created 2 ground wires by crimping on the connectors, and then soldering them using a propane torch. After that I wrapped the ends with heat shrink. Later on I will use wire tubing to cover the ground wires up, along with a healthy coat of silicone-based dielectric grease on all of the connections.

Anyways, I'm not sure of the grounding points:



Should I ground the valve cover? If so where?:




So far I have:
1. Replaced the driver's side engine mount ground wire
2. Added a new Battery->Chassis ground wire
3. Made a Battery->Engine Block ground wire (just need to get the correct sized bolt)

What about the throttle body, alternator, and transmission? On the valve cover, should I attach the wire close to the VTEC Solenoid (where is it? I heard someone metion doing on a board somewhere ) Is there a "sweet spot" on the throttle body? Will mounting a ground cable on the alternator body and running it to the negative (-) battery terminal be a good idea?

Originally posted by xivera
Hyper Ground/ Earthing kit ground points
1) battery to chassis ground (opposite the battery... Also, covers 1 of the big 3)
2) battery to intake manifold
3) intake manifold to opposite side of the engine head (in the front)
4) from the engine head to the tranny
5) from the engine head back to the battery

It's one big daisy chain. 6/8 AWG power wire should suffice...

While you're at it... You might as well address the Big 3 just in case you have dimming lights whenever your bass hits HARD.
1) #1 from above
2) engine to chassis ground
3) alternator to battery cable run
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Old Jun 3, 2003 | 09:56 PM
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BTW, I didn't literally mean the valve cover, which is plastic in most cars. I meant the "engine head." I'm thinking I should do it by connecting the wire using one of those black bolts along the valve cover in the pic I posted.


here are pics of one of my DIY 4ga ground wires:


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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 09:48 AM
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ur going over kill with ur grounding project buddy, but illo support ur addiction all u have to do is make sure the engine block has a good contact with the frame (chassis) of ur car which is functioning as the ground connection, any bolt attached to the frame will work, any bolt hole off of ur engine block will work, what u might want to do is sand down the connection point and attach a copper washer over the top of ur grounding wire connection due to that some paints are not conductive. good luck
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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 09:54 AM
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Originally posted by crxb16er
ur going over kill with ur grounding project buddy, but illo support ur addiction all u have to do is make sure the engine block has a good contact with the frame (chassis) of ur car which is functioning as the ground connection, any bolt attached to the frame will work, any bolt hole off of ur engine block will work, what u might want to do is sand down the connection point and attach a copper washer over the top of ur grounding wire connection due to that some paints are not conductive. good luck
that engine block ground I'm about to do is actually the cylinder head. It's right next to where the radiator hose connects. The valve cover/engine head in my pic won't need to be grounded. I'll use a dremel with wire brush bit to sand down the terminals (saves time), and I'll use sand paper on the contact points. Good call on the copper washer, I would have used a regular washer. :thumbup:

Anyways, the one engine block ground that I'm doing is going to run directly to the negative battery terminal since it's next to it, and much closer than the chassis, is that alright?
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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 09:59 AM
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thats perfect buddy, ur engine looks really nice and clean btw, very nice car.
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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 12:26 PM
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Holy shit your bay is clean! :eh:
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Old Jun 4, 2003 | 02:25 PM
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Originally posted by qtiger
Holy shit your bay is clean! :eh:
car only has 5300 miles
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Old Jun 5, 2003 | 10:45 AM
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i dont really know about this grounding stuff, so someone please knock some sense into my head okay...what is the whole point of grounding (bcuz all i heard is that it keeps your car from building electromagnetic, and quites down that buzzing noises that comes from your stereo) more info would help out...
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Old Jun 6, 2003 | 09:00 AM
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amps are amount of current of energy or how high the flow is
watts are a measurement of energy

ok u need to get an understanding of how electricity flows, uve got ur battery its got 2 sides one positive one negative, from the positive end it starts breaking off to different fuses, relays, systems, and subsystems, anything that draws power (uses energy then needs to be grounded to close the loop (have a wire going back to the negative side of the battery). all cars (as far as i know) use the chassis or body of the car as a ground and then have a wire connected to the negative battery cable off of the chassis. resistance is caused by bad connections, worn wires, wires that are too thin for the amount of amps going thru them, or something is too far back in the circuit loop (has too many components [systems or subsystems] off of that particular wire b4 being grounded, im trying to think of a way of explaining this. ok this is kinda out there but:
top of the waterslide is the positive connection of ur battery
pool at the bottom is the negative,
tubes are wires

think of a water slide (which is a certain height in there air that Needs to get water to different areas (those areas needing that water or power) which ultimately ends up in a pool then that pool pumps water back to the top and it starts all over,

starting up high the water is rushing down a tube, the tube then breaks off and heads in different directions, breaking off into different directions does not slow down the energy of the water, but the steeper the tube downward the faster the water moves and the opposite applies, the slower the water moves the more energy is lost (resistance is built up), with damaged tubes leaking water (Power is lost), with a tube not getting water to where it has to (short circuited) the system will not get power and the water will just fall to the pool causing the system to not work at all. so the steeper tubes or smaller connected areas will get more of a current of water than those longer tubes, long tubes the will have more resistance and will eventually get the water thru but the current will have slowed due to resistance.

thats kinda confusing, by creating better grounds, ur allowing the energy to come back to the battery creating a better circuit with less resistance in effect making whatever is drawing the power stronger, ie lights, radio, spark plug ignitions, etc.
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Old Jun 6, 2003 | 09:05 AM
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that was way confusing after trying to read is so i felt i should give u better advice, read this and hopefully itll help you understand this alot better, im not good with simple every day terminology, read the parts on wires, connectors and relays and fuses
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/wfc.htm
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