Ah, i get yah. So the valves hit the piston, not the other way around. You said the pistons were hitting the valves.

Bassicly the crank stops almost instantly and the inertia in the cams causes them to keep turning, thus stretching the timing belt and causing what ever cylinder at/near tdc's valves to hit the piston?

Or am i off again? And I am a gifted student damn it :fawk:

 

REbornHONDAneer - With the valve cover off, adjust the valves, sounds like you've been looking for the right things already.

SlprTeg- The crank has more inertia than the valve train, I'm trying to tell you that a cylinder won't entirely fill up with water, but it can fill enough to cause compression high enough that during the compression stroke on one cylinder, it can cause enough of a strain on the cams to slow or halt the motion of the cams while the inertia of the crank and attached pistons is harder to overcome, which can allow enough extra rotation to allow the pistons to contact the valves. Valves hitting pistons do not bend valves, pistons hitting valves bend valves.

 

That doesnt matter, no valves move in the cylinder during the compression stroke. THe pressure could be 2000 psi and it wouldnt matter. Valves only move on the intake and exhaust strokes. If there is no valve movement on the cylinder with the comrpession stroke, then the cams dont even touch the rockers meaning no valvetrain movement is goin on in that cylinder.

Does anyone else understand him?

 

in theory slpr teg, you are right, but there is a lot of "overlap" between the strokes. Do no confuse this with overlap in which the intake and exhaust valves are both open. The intake valve actually opens 15* before the actual intake stroke begins and stays open 40* into the exhaust stroke. With the pistons comming up fast than the valves closing this will put a strain on the valve train if there is water in the way

 

Lemme try this again. There is MORE THAN ONE CYLINDER in most car engines. One cylinder may be at TDC, the others will not, that means valves are open, where they can be hit by a piston.

 

Thank you! That makes sense! I figured there was only overlap between the exhaust/intake stroke but apparently this is wrong You should be a teacher, but then you couldnt afford to mod your car :fawk:

Btw thx for trying to explain 1stgen, you almost had me

 

Well, i removed the valve cover last night and checked it out. NO problem! Still a golden brown with no "white water" to be found anywhere. So thats all good i guess. Next is the compression tester then a leakdown test.

Thanx for the help again!

 

Hello, I was reading this thread and I need some advise on the same issue.

I have 1996 Acura RL that got flooded. (accidently ran into the ditch full of water). The engine now is dry, I replaced the ECU, ABS module, Multiplex network, fluids and spark plugs. But the engine won't start, it just turns and makes the same sound as when you have all spark plugs out. No spark. I took the car to the shop and they told me I had bad timing belt. Now they call me and say the belt is good but my rings are washed and I need a new engine. But the engine is VERY EXPENSIVE for this one. ANybody got any ideas what else I might do??? HELP!!!

 

By "ditch full of water" do you mean the front of the car was submerged? If it was underwater, you're lucky it even cranks.

 

Yes the whole passenger side front end and up to doors in the water. Water also got inside the car. Tomorrow I will tow it to the different shop.