A compression and leakdown test will give you about a 90% guarantee that everything's fine. You can still have some damage that isn't readily noticable, but may pop up later, so if everything checks out, just keep an eye on fluids, fuel mileage and normal driving behavior. I would definately have those two tests done, as well as re-tensioning the timing belt at a minimum. When you have the valves adjusted, check for signs of water vapor in the head, which will look like somebody exploded a vanilla pudding cup under the valve cover, in which case that will have to be cleaned and the oil changed immediately. While you're taking this new-found interest in your engine's well-being, check the radiator level every day first time you drive it, and look for oil in the coolant, or unusally low levels.

BTW, yes I'm a mechanic, I restore British sports cars when I'm not at school training for a cleaner job, I've raced in many levels of motorsports for 11 years, and try to learn from everyone elses mistakes because it's cheaper that way

 

1st gen, how can the timing belt stress under the pressure? What pressure? The timing belt will slow down with the engine when u hydrolock? Itsn ot like theres 2 fly wheels on your cams that cause it to keep spinning after the car stops You're the mechanic tho so set me str8

 

It's simple if you would just think about it.

One cylinder fills with water enough to cause a high pressure situation, which holds the valves shut, and places pressure on the cams, enough pressure that the camshafts will slow drastically in comparison with the crank. Result? The weight of the flywheel tries to force the engine to roll over, the cams don't want to move, you have one cylinder with valves open while the original cylinder is closed up and unable to move, the belt stretches or skips, and the piston immitates mike and tina with the valves. Anything over 1500 RPM would be sufficient speed on most engines to make this scenario plausible. Valves hitting pistons don't bend them, pistons hitting valves bends valves. Also during this type of action is when piston ring lands break and water can find it's way into the crank case.

 

shoudnt the valves already be open during b4 exhaust stroke?

 

first of all...i am always interested in my engine's well being...but this is the FIRST time this type of situation arose. So i'm askin questions about it.

Now....about the coolant. Would i see the oil at the top? Because oil will float to the top right? Also check the overflow tank as well?

Thanx!

Dave

 

I'm just teasin' man, I was referring to the fact that since this has happened you'll likely be more paranoid about things than you were previously
Yes, check both, oil will rise to the top. In the crankcase, the water will turn into a milky white substance if present.

 

You're not getting it. One cylinder will be trying to reach TDC, the others will not, if the pistons continue to move and the valves don't, things hit.

 

TDC of the exhaust or compression stroke? Has to be the exhaust stroke because no valves move during the compression stroke. And on the exhaust stroke, valves usually open right b4 the the beging of the exhaust stroke so there should be no pressure holding them even if there is water in the cylinder.

Can you try to explain it a little better, cuz I kno i'm not slow :fawk:


I can see the valves hitting the pistons if the motor just stops instantly cuz of the water and the valve keeps goin and smacks the piston but that shouldnt damage the valves...

 

Slow isn't the word.

TDC compression stroke. The cylinder trying to compress the water is not the one that will bend valves, and during that time, other cylinders WILL have valves moving.

 

Well...i just dont wanna be known as a person that doesnt take care of his car. Last weekend i just changed the oil/tranny fluid/and coolant. And i did that with ease. Some people would totally freak if they had to do that. Some poeple are just more "technicaly" oriented than other..and i am FAR from that person..just to let ya know!

But ne wayz..back to the topic....

This weekend i'll try to find a compression tester and i'm gonna remove my valve cover. I'll check some things..take some pics..etc. I just changed my valve cover gasket about a 2 months ago.

So i'm looking for anyting white right? I remember how it looked when i changed it...it was a golden brown with no flaky stuff anythere..just oil oil everywhere as far as the eye can see..ok...that was stupid. There was some flaky stuff on the valve cover itself, but thats because oil is splashed up there and heated so it burns. Unlike my moms DEAD 93 escort where EVERYTHING under the valve cover was black with flaky stuff everwhere(i was told this was carbon deposits).

Anything else i can do while the valve cover is off?

Thanx for all ur help bro! Preciate it!

Dave