Stumbling on decelleration
the ignitor is very very very easy to replace.. check your ECU light after your engine heats up, watch for a blink(s) tell us what it is, if there are any. i know you said you weren't throwing any codes, but i wanna make sure of it.
I replaced my ignitor, still that "poping" noise from my exhaust too... and then after i replaced the ignitor (code 15, i think) my code #1 (o2 sensor) was still on, and it still has the poping sound to my exhaust. so check your ECU to make sure!
I replaced my ignitor, still that "poping" noise from my exhaust too... and then after i replaced the ignitor (code 15, i think) my code #1 (o2 sensor) was still on, and it still has the poping sound to my exhaust. so check your ECU to make sure!
Again... I've got an AEM computer. It doesn't flash the lights or throw codes. The only way to read faults would be off of the unit itself and I can't as I do not have a laptop.
I opened the factory service manual up to the Ignition section and its got an ignition coil and an ignition control module, as well as the tdc/cyp/ckp sensor. Is one of these what you guys are talking about? I'm still not on the same page as you guys.
I opened the factory service manual up to the Ignition section and its got an ignition coil and an ignition control module, as well as the tdc/cyp/ckp sensor. Is one of these what you guys are talking about? I'm still not on the same page as you guys.
It's the ignition control module your after here - you won't necesarily get a CEL if the igniter is bad. There is a procedure listed in the helms manual as to measuring out the igniter with a multimeter, or you can take it to a car parts store that tests ignition modules. Usually, if there's a problem with one of the sensors in the distributor, you will get a CEL, but I still wouldn't rule out that possibilty as well. The igniter is the easier and cheaper part to replace, but the sensors go along with the whole distributor housing as one part - rip off! BTW have you checked your ground wires yet?


