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guide me! b-series engine specs

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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 08:46 AM
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Default guide me! b-series engine specs

alright guys here is the deal...tell me if this is feasable (sp?). I want a 2 liter B-series motor in my civic...end of story. I will get a 2 liter motor. I DO NOT want a CRVtec...I am not dealing with a frankenstein motor that was never meant to turn power in the first place.

So basically that leaves me with boring out a a B18C to 84mm and having it sleeved to get my 2 liter motor. Is their anything else I can do? Could I bore out a B16A to 2 liter? I plan on having my block resleeved and everything. what is the difference block wise between the B16 and B18? What crankshaft is better? Would a B16 bored to 84mm only be a 1.8 liter engine? Could I safely bore it bigger? Whats the rod/stroke of B16A? B18C?

I am asking all this because I could get a B16A block cheaper then a B18C...plus B16A heads and manifolds are just a little better cause the head flows better and the manifold doesn't have the secondary butterfly or whatever. I can't seem to find a longblock GSR motor anywhere...but I can find a B16A no problem

What setup would be better for turbo? I really want turbo...but part of me is thinking I should just go N/A...but maybe not.

but to some everything up...I want 2 liter. I DON'T want CRVtec. Tell me every single option their could be and the benefits and feasability of each.
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 09:33 AM
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The stroke on the B16 isn't long enough to provide about 2.0 liters of displacement if you bore it out. Also, the B18 motors have a taller deck height than the B16 so you can't just pop a B18 crank into a B16 block. You would have to install a deck plate to do so.

Think about it this way. It's cheaper to buy a B18C block and resleeve/bore to 84 mm; than it is to buy a B16A block, B18C1 crank, deck plate, and resleeve/bore to 84 mm.
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 10:28 AM
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I'd consider sleeving bigger than 84 mm. If you are going to sleeve it, why not make it 86 mm?
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 10:35 AM
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Originally posted by -KangaRod-
I'd consider sleeving bigger than 84 mm. If you are going to sleeve it, why not make it 86 mm?
thats for the B16 your talkin about...yeah...i am definately getting it sleeved...so couldn't I just bore a B16 to 86 mm? or is that just asking for trouble? it would still have the awesome rod/stroke of the B16, only 2 liters...how sweet would that be? any downsides?
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 12:24 PM
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Well, that engine would have a super peaky powerband, even moreso that the that of the b16 right now. I wouldn't do it if you need midrange power, or if you want lots of torque cause you really wont feel the torque in that engine. I'd still say grab a GsR. Rod:stroke isn't about better or worse, its about what kind of power you want to make. The lower the rod:stroke the more torque you'll make, and the sooner it will come on. The higher the rod:stroke, the more revhappy your engine will be.
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 12:28 PM
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86mm sleeves don't leave much material around the sleeve, so structural integrity is an issue. TheN/A guys who sleeve their blocks usually don't go past 85.5mm or so, and the F/I guys usually go up to 84mm. If you're going turbo, stick to 84mm sleeves. Sleeving a B16A to 84mm yields about 1.7L of displacement. Sleeving a B18C to 84mm yields 1933cc of displacement. Sleeving a B18A/B to 84mm yields 1973cc of displacement. The B16B has the same deck height as the other B series blocks, so you could theoretically put an LS crank into one , run LS rods, and sleeve it to 84mm, which would be the equivalent of an LS/VTEC sleeved to 84mm, or a B20/VTEC. Whether you'd want to do that to a B16B block is entirely up to you. For simplicity, it'd probably be most reliable to just sleeve a B18C out to 84mm. You'll be closer to 1.9L than your goal of 2.0L. If you really need to be closer to 2.0L, then a properly built LS/VTEC should be fine. The best of both worlds(OEM VTEC components/reliability and longer stroke and a little more displacement) would be to take a B18C or B16B and run an LS crank, rather than trying to add VTEC oiling components to a B18A/B block. If you wind up running a non-VTEC block and adding the VTEC oiling components, you'll probably want to add a block girdle as well. You can either run an OEM GSR/ITR one or a Z10 one. With either of those, you'll have to have dowels properly machined into your mains to keep it properly alligned. Hybrid Garage has a new girdle out that includes dowels, covers all 5 mains, and looks very sturdy:



http://store.hybridgarage.com/pics/TeamHGR-girdle/

Retail Price $539.99
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No drilling is required, everything is bolt-on, including dowels.
By the way, this only applies to B16A, B17A, B18A, B18B, B20B, and B20Z -- You will have to run a GSR oil pan and windage tray for clearance. You also need a GSR oil pickup.
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 12:48 PM
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wow, thats nice. I just put my z10 one in though. I'm sort of even regretting buying that one though, I think i probably would've been fine without it.
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Old Mar 2, 2003 | 07:28 PM
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Why are you so up in arms about a B20/VTEC? It's not a bad engine if built CORRECTLY. If you build if 1/2 assed like most people do, then yea it'll be full of grimlins. It would turn as much or more power than any of the other engine's you've proposed. B20/VTEC's are nasty nasty engines if you build them right. Sleeving any of those engines and you're gonna be spending $1000 just to get the 84mm bore.
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