and that is why i said LS/VTEC!!!!!!!!

 

Now with LS/VTEC, what kind of internals will I need to throw in there to keep the block safe?

Would the "BlockGuard" thing help alot? Will the stock ls crank be safe with a good amount of boost?

What kind of rods should I look at buying? And especilly, what pistons?

 

Safe and reliable? Start with at least 4 liters of displacement, add high-flow heads and a "power" cam.

 

Well, I just sold the old setup out of my hatch. It was a stock b20/VTEC with a t3/t4 turbo....on pump gas at only 8psi it dyno'd 280hp at the wheels. All stock internals, VAFC, 93 octane gas, 3" exhaust. It ran 12.2 in the 1/4 mile with slicks.


My new setup will be faster.....hehe

 

You said you wanted reliable, so LS/VTEC is almost out of the question. I could ad why, but this article sums up my feelings about it.http://www.distributedworks.com/ind...rce/lsvtec.html
Now if you want to do this right and arent a fan of rebuilding your entire block, heres a pretty nice streetable setup, and It'll give you way more then 300 to the wheels.First start with USDM GSR block. Hers a list from the bottom up:

Stock Crank- Machine work, balance, polish. Might not want to knife edge it cuase under boost the structural integrity will be gone.

Rods- Eagle's are good, Crowers better. You will be able to get away with Eagles just fine.

Pistons- 82mm JE 9:1 forged. Good bore, good piston, nuff said

Block- resleeve with Golden Eagle sleeves and block guard. this is gonna be the key part. We have a open deck design were working with so we NEED to strengthen it.

Head- entire valve train needs to be replaced. I went with Skunk 2, just fine for me. Stock cams, but with adj. gears. Port it, port match the manifold, three angle valve job, polish the combustion chambers. Go with a skunk 2 or ITR intake manifold, better flow.

Turbo- Get a custom kit made. Drag blows, ever since last year their parts have been made in Taiwan to save them money. Find someone to make a exhaust manifold and down pipe. We sell maniflod, downpipe and Turbonetics turbo for round $1,700.
Buyt the rest of the pieces seperate. IT may be a little more money, but you have exactly what you need and want.
For the turbo itself, go with a T4, with stage 3 wheel, with a 50 trim and 63AR hot side. It will be very streetable, and make really good power throughout the range.

Fuel- If you must save money, go with a Vortech fully adj. fuel system, dont get the 12:1 it wont be adequit. Get an S-AFC to tune that. An MSD ignition with the boost retard is gonna be a good thing too. If you can afford it the AEM stand alone will be the best computor to go with, but not everyone has money like that. For injectors go with 550 cc, they flow 42% better tehn 440 and are only a little bit more money.


This is a lot of stuff. IF you can afford it, great, cause this is the right way to turboa HOnda. If you cant, I suggest saving your money so you dont spend it twice when you have to rebuild your blown, stock motor. As far as boost goes, with everything BUT the AEM computor, you could run 14 psi everyday and almost make your goal. If you get rid of the Vortech and S-AFC and replace it with the AEM, you could run 18-20 pounds no problem. Just find someone to tune it and I could guarentee close to 400 hp at the wheels, with 93 octane.

good luck


p.s. Dont forget a missing link. It tricks your computor to think everything is ok. When you r engine reads preassure at greater then 11 lbs. it throws a code, this just trickes it.

 

MNY2BRN: :thumbup:

Thanks bro, lots of good info.

 

MNY2BRN
what do you estimate all that costing with the aem computer, motor and turbo setup. Ill try to break down about what each thing would be, correct me if im wrong because im really just throwing out an estamate.

engine (usdm b18c1) - $3000
internal parts(pistons rods) - $1000
probably want some ARP head studs with high boost - $100
sleeve the block - $700
now the head
skunk turbo cams - $800
cam gears - $200
headwork (p&p etc.) $800
titanium retainers and valve springs - $400
skunk2 intake manifold - $350
and at least $1000 to do all the work on the block
turbo/downpipe/manifold - $1700
intercooler/bov/wastegate/piping - $2000
aem computer - $1000
dont forget fuel system(pump/regulator/ fuel rail/ injectors/ etc.) - $600
MSD - $200
and if you want to get that power to the ground you are gonna need a better clutch - $500
and some LSD Quaife is good - $900

am i forgeting anything?
oh MNY2BRN, do you have a shop or something, or have you done something similar to this?

 

oh i forgot, what are the pros/cons for the new hondata with boost option vs the aem for turbo applications?

 

Sportmode, I'll do my best to give you an exact price on stuff. And yes I do work at a shop,Extreme Parts, in Racine WI. This setup is in the works one of our customers. Your estimates are pretty close. As far as Hondata compared to AEM go's, I like the both for differant reasons. Hondata has the launch hold and full throtle shifting ability which was very nice on my buddies Turbo'd Si. The AEM still has more features, and easy to operate. With the Hondata they brag about how the MAP sensor no longer throws a code, but you can get a Missing Link which does teh same thing for $70 if you get the AEM. IT also has a boost cut off jsut like the AEM. The AEM is more but in my opinion the Hondata has not reached the level that AEM is playing on. Hers some of the key features of the AEM:

-Automatic fule mapping
-onboard datalogging
-All sensors you need can be included
-Programmable inputs and outputs
-Boost control
-Idle control
-Base maps included to get you started

This is just my opinion, I like the AEM better, but thats just me.

 

IMO, **** hondata and **** AEM... You want your computer to make REAL POWER? Go with a HALTECH (good) or a TEC3 (best) these are REAL performance computers, the kind AEM only wishes it could make! My neaghbor two houses down has a SVT MUSTANG COBRA (SUPERCHARGED STOCK) He threw one of the TEC3's on (They are completley versitile for any 4/6/8/12 CYL) and made an instant 26% more power WITH OUT TUNING... He just slaped it in and the damn thing LEARNS you motor from the second you start your car! Its fawkin amazing they START @ $1800... Thats the cheapest I have seen the bare bone kits for.