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what the hell is wrong with my motor?

Old Jan 23, 2003 | 06:05 AM
  #11  
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vermsta
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From: Citrus Heights
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The reason it set a check engine light is because it detected a problem in the o2 circuit, it doesn't mean it was using it's input, but it still monitors it's operation. If you ever watch an o2 sensor before it's in close loop it's always on higher voltage like 700 millivolts and as soon as it goes into closed loop you'll see it jumping 100 to 900 a million times a second. Yours set a check engine light because it was most likely sending a stale signal back to the ecm, in other words it was either stuck at one voltage, which will set a code no matter what. Remember a check engine light is just a helper it's not the gospel.
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Old Jan 23, 2003 | 06:50 AM
  #12  
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rev
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From: Nashville
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I'm generally not on the tuning end of things but one of my regular customers owns an Acura/Honda only shop and complains that any of the Mugen program ECU's he puts in cars don't utilize the cold start function and run poorly until they are warm. That would lead me to believe it is common to the ECU you are using.
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Old Jan 23, 2003 | 07:03 AM
  #13  
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Dave C
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From: Rockville Md
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Originally posted by ZiviCase10287
thats why he's wrong, tell me this then, i had a bad o2 sensor when i drove for about 2 mins my check light would come on, Heat guage still below cold, i could drive 12 hours in 20 degree below weather and my heat guage would still be below cold, and when i pop the hood my engine is just a little bit warm, my radiator is taking in too much cold air, so tell me what one... i already replaced it and it was the o2 sensor but why was it working when my engine wasn't even warm???
Bad thermostat.
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Old Feb 3, 2003 | 08:26 AM
  #14  
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preylude99
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From: so cali
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bad thermostat sounds right, i live in 90 degree weather year round lol, i had my thermostat go out and my temp gauge would never go past maybe 10 percent...... when they go bad the spring gets stuck open and allows too much coolant to pass....
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Old Feb 6, 2003 | 08:33 AM
  #15  
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From: Napa, CA
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After warm up, the idle is still extrememly low, (600, playing with the screw does very little) and the "lumpy" sound is still present, just not as noticiable. It's runs extremely rich 100% of the time.

I've had this problem for a while now, but I just don't have the time or the money at school to work on it. I'm going home at the end of Feb. and I'm going to:

Replace 02 sensor
Replace Dist, and Wires. (friend has a spare ignition setup off another b16)
Check timing
Check valves. (It may indeed be the valves because I just had a friend adjust them, he's done it plenty of times before, but he has a history of screwing up)

Christ I'm tired of this car. If you any of you want a hybrid on the cheap, let me know.
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Old Feb 6, 2003 | 08:53 AM
  #16  
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sunshine
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From: UCSD
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maybe your timing belt is off a tooth, that'll make cars run like butt.
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