ignition timing... i guess something's not clickin in my head... is that the same as the regular timing u check w/ a timing gun on the flywheel?

 

^

could the EGR valve be a possible culprit?

I know i talked to bakeoff but i'm still a lil confused as to which ignition wire i hook the timing light to... when u look at the d16z6... the plug closest to the distributor or the plug closest to the flywheel?
still getting horrible gas mileage

 

I seem to have the same problem with my gsr swapped civic. But, I run consistently rich. You can even see it spray out of my exhaust during WOT. I would appreciate advise on mine as well as this problem has bothered me since I swapped the motor close to a year ago. I think I might know the problem, but not sure. I bought a "chipped" ecu off ebay. (Yea right). I think it just raised the fuel curve and just added more fuel. But, like you said, the ecu doesn't really get involved on WOT. Its up to the sensors. So, could one of my sensors be bad?
Another problem with my swap is I cannot cruise at a certain speed on the road. You know how you hold the pedal at a certain position and your car stays at say 45mph. Mine doesn't. It only lets me speed up or slow down. There seems to be no inbetween. I swapped out my civic throttle cable for a gsr one in hopes it would help. No luck. Please help!!!

 

don't whore my thread

bump!

 

Hook timing light to the spark plug cable closest to the belts on driver side (#1). [90% sure since that's how it is on my d16y8].

Also,
check for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner/brake cleaner.
check MAP sensor - some1 can probably take a couple of pics from Helms manual for you on this...
coolant level
warm engine up before driving

In any case, depending on how long it has been running rich, your O2 sensor and your cat are probably fried. Probably worth it to replace those after you figure out why it is running rich.

 

explain how I chcek for vacum leaks a in more detail plz... don't konw how

what does the MAP sensor do?

and i did tht timing before.. its right on the money if its the ignition wire closest to the distributor... but i never checked how far off it is when i cliped it on to the wire closest to the fly wheel.

 

To check vor vacuum leaks if you don't have a vac gauge, you go around the engine bay and spray carb cleaner on the various vac hoses. If at any point the engine speed increases(revs up) when you spray carb cleaner on a certain vac hose, then there's probably a leak there.

The MAP, or manifold absolute pressure sensor reads the vacuum pressure of the intake manifold and sends that signal to the ECM. The ECM uses the MAP signal, along with other variable to determine the fuel curve the engine runs on. If you go from idle with the throttle closed, to full accelleration with the throttle open, the MAP goes from about 22in of Hg to 0. The ECM uses the changing MAP signal, along with the TPS signal and other sensor readouts to supply fuel under varying engine load conditions.

As for the timing light, it should be connected to sparkplug wire of the #1 cylinder. Just go to the plug that's closest to the driver side and trace the wire back.

 

well, the timing is right on the money when its connected to the wire closest to the passenger side... i never touched it.. i think i need to consult a manual... i find it odd that its perfect when I hooked i up to once plug, and way off on the plug its supposed to be hooked up to....

if there was a vac leak.. wouldn't there be a CEL?

 

that's your problem right there. You need to do the timing again w/ the correct spark plug cable.

 

not necessarily