I installed my FPR (fuel pressure regulator)last week and was wondering what setting is best....if anyone has done one. My stock idle is at 36PSI and I boosted up to 38PSI. It runs great, but I wonder if if anyone has done this...and what PSI seems best for them? Im thinking of boosting a little more...Oh yeah its for an integra 96 LS with cams, cam gear, intake, header, and exhaust. Anyone with any comments, please share...thanks

 

Please tell me you have some additional method of fuel control...

With that much modification, you can easily see double your power gains with some tuning... you need far more than an FPR to get things right.

 

ahh, get an Air/fuel ratio meter. They are pretty cheap and will help you with tuning your engine. A fuel pressure gauge and an exhaust gas temp. gauge will also help in tuning your car. And dont forget the ever so important DYNO runs that will tell you what works best. BTW what are your cam gears set at as far as retard and advance go. I know my best friend had his set at 4deg. advance on the intake and 3 deg. retard on the exhaust and thats where he found the best over all performance at, and his fuel pressure was at 40psi on his B16a3.

 

The air/fuel meters you can get for like 40 bucks do nothing more than display a graphical representation of the voltage coming off the oxygen sensor. In and of itself, this isn't an issue. The problem is that the oxygen sensor is only really accurate under conditions which cause the ECU to go into open loop mode (high TPS and RPM values). When you're just putzing around the oxygen sensor reading will bounce all over the place and whatever shows up on the a/f meter doesn't mean a damn thing. Basically it's good only to show if you're leaning out on a WOT run, not as a tuning tool.

As for "tuning" a car with just an adjustable fuel pressure regulator...it's pointless. All you're doing is richening or leaning out the entire fuel map stored in the ECU, and only in very small amounts. Injectors flow a fixed amount, the way you get more fuel into the motor is to alter the signal going to the injectors and tell them to stay open for longer. This is how the ECU controls things, and this is why the stock fuel pressure is fixed at around 43 psi. To really see any gains you'll need some way to adjust the signals being sent to the fuel injectors (an A'PEXi S-AFC works well), a dyno and a wide-band oxygen sensor which most dynos are equipped with.

 

I was thinking about the S-AFC...so let me see if I get this right...The S-AFC is the only tool as far as piggy back goes that will allow my injectors to open a little longer? Does this include adding more air too? If thats the case, would that be the same as reprogramming the ECU, except I can control it? With the mods I have so far, anyone have any input on what else I can do or get to help get some little more horse? I want to get everything before I DYNO tune it. Any guess on what WHP I might get? I was thinking about a throttle body. I dont want to mill the head either or port and polish...its just too costy. I appreciate everyones opinion...thanks

 

i wasnt talking about one of the cheap a/f ratio meters. http://www.optauto.com/webstore/search_results.asp something like the HkS ones or the AUTO METER ones. The Apex-i S-AFC is a great tool if you know how to use it. You can change the fuel map and richen and lean out the engine as needed. It would work great with an A/F meter.

 

The Auto Meter a/f guage taps directly into the stock oxygen sensor signal, and HKS doesn't make one. On a forced induction car it's nice to have as a warning light against leaning out when you're dropping the hammer but that's pretty much it. Pretty much any dyno has a wideband oxygen sensor which will give you a plot of your a/f ratios during the whole dyno run which is much more useful than looking at some blinking lights running off the stock oxygen sensor.

The S-AFC is a nice piggyback, if you had a different one in mind pretty much any one will work. What it allows you to do is tune the fuel map. A reprogrammed ECU generally will have a different fuel map, timing map and rev limiter from stock. You can get a Hondata s100 for $245 (that's cheaper than the S-AFC) which fits inside the ECU and lets you tune fuel and ignition maps, plus the rev limiter. So all you'd have to do is go to a shop that sells Hondata and ask for an s100 and dyno tuning. For the price you can't beat it.

As far as any more boltons to grab before going to the dyno, I'd skip the throttle. It's not really a restriction so opening it up isn't really going to get you more power. You could get a skunk2 intake manifold, that should be good for some power.

 

Despite what people said, I noticed the best performance increase was at 39 PSI with my B&M Fuel Pressure Regulator. Ran 38 PSI for a long time tho. Don't go over 39, it will run rich and you'll lose power in the higher speeds.

 

the Hondata sounds great....I'd rather get that than the SAFC. WHats safe on stock rev? I was thinking of increasing it to around 7000. I think thats pretty safe right? Do u guys know if mild cams, cam gears, intake, cat-back, and headers...will that pass smog check? What do u guys think..should I get the mog first then tune it, or tune it and then get the smog later. I will be looking for someone to pass it for me...right now I have straight pipe too...so I know for sure it will not pass, so Im looking for a stock catalytic convertor....anyone have one for sale..or know anyone? thanks everyone

 

You can get a Carsound cat for much cheaper than a stock piece and it will flow essentially the same as a straight pipe. They're available from lots of places. Bolt the cat on and then take it to a Hondata dealer to be tuned. As long as you've got a cat on there and aren't running too rich I wouldn't expect any problems passing emissions.